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How to pare tenons plumb and square

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tibi

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I would rarely use a hand router for the first cut of a tenon, that's not it's job.
For straight grain, try a chisel 5mm from the finished line.
For other wood, use a saw and cut away from the line (depending on your skill).
This is when the router plane comes into its own.
Can ensure the surface of the tenon is parallel to the body of the piece.
Can adjust the thickness of the tenon in incredibly fine margins.
Can clean out the corners for a flush fit.

A tool well suited to *some* jobs, but cutting away 3" of timber? No.
Sure, we were talking about the last finishing touch of the hand router, not for the whole procedure. I have used a chisel to remove the material along the grain, as the grain is straight and tenon saw across the grain. But as Jacob said, my goal is to get it right from the saw and save time.
 

redhunter350

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Tibi, it may seem a silly question but do you wear spectacles?
The reason is I do and before having to I could “eyeball” a cut very very close to square, now with specs the only way is mark out and follow the line ! The problem is astigmatism correction factored into prescription spectacles.
 

tibi

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Tibi, it may seem a silly question but do you wear spectacles?
The reason is I do and before having to I could “eyeball” a cut very very close to square, now with specs the only way is mark out and follow the line ! The problem is astigmatism correction factored into prescription spectacles.
Hi,

no I do not wear spectacles. But as I work at the computer the whole day, in a few years, I might have to.
 

CStanford

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If your stock is properly four-squared then set your mortise gauge so that the tenon will fit the mortise with all six lines (there are six arrises on a regular tenon) from the gauge still barely showing on the tenon after you've sawn it out. If you've used the gauge properly, then you know the tenon is square and plumb to the rest of the board if the six lines are still barely showing. Gauge lightly! Do not dig a trench with the gauge which encourages the saw to fall into the line and obliterate it/them. Once you've lost the lines, you've lost all signposts to plumb and square as to the tenon itself to the rest of the board. Use whatever saw you like, power or hand, just make sure to leave the lines. It's not necessarily easy. A mortise and tenon joint that fits straight off the saw and mortise chisel is harder to execute than perfect dovetails.
 
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