I have tried Veritas router today, but it cannot reach 50 mm deep to clean the top side of the tenon on my stretcher. However after some trying, I have managed to get it decently square with just a chisel.the router plane is ONLY for the final pass on the tenon, it creates a level of precision not usually achieved with just a chisel, it's not needed but good to use if you have one that is all, I do most of the work with a tenon saw, then pairing chisel then router plane, if you can get it straight from the saw then great but I like sneaking up on the line because I like a good fit not too tight and not too loose, the final fit is what I spend the most time on usually.
Use a bandsaw.
Cut the tenons roughly 1mm too thick, then cut the shoulders.
Clamp a piece of square ended timber to the bandsaw table so it’s touching the blade, just behind the teeth and square to the blade.
Now your bandsaw will take a half kerf skim cut as the blade won’t have anywhere to go sideways.
Doing tenons this way gives you vernier calliper repeatable accurate tenons.
yes I understand, that's quite an unusual tenon as well, on a normal size tenon it'd work fine.
Forgot to say - if you are paring tenons or using a router or anything, you are remedying mistakes.Yes, for normal tenons, I would definitely use the router. I have used it for dados in the past, so I have a little experience.
Jacob,Forgot to say - if you are paring tenons or using a router or anything, you are remedying mistakes.
If you are doing it properly from the start there would be no mistakes, except as rare exceptions.
Some things can have 8, 16 or more M&Ts. You'd be at it for hours if every one you have to whittle with a router. It could be impossible to finish.
So you need to look at your technique. Tenons should come perfect, from the saw, every time, no chisels, no routers, just a saw.
Router planes are popular at the moment - sudden fashion in the air, but in reality nobody really needs them.
I just sold mine for 6 times what I paid for it 15 years ago. I've never used it. I've got a woody "old woman's tooth" in reserve but I've never used that either.
I'd spend some time practicing your sawing technique.Jacob,
That is right, ideally it would be the best to cut straight from the saw. But I am afraid to cut past the line, so I cut 1 - 1.5 mm away from the line. I need to correctly estimate the kerf width. But my goal is to be able cut tenons straight from the saw.
Thank you Jacob, I will practise my sawing technique. I have a lot of scrap wood laying around. Once I am confident, I will continue cutting tenons straight of the saw.I'd spend some time practicing your sawing technique.
Essential to have a consistent marking system - ideally you use the same gauge for both mortice and tenon (if the design allows it) and leave the gauge set from start to finish of the job, incase you need to go back.
Key thing is to cut all the mortice, and the tenon cheeks only whilst the pieces are still square and marked up everywhere and on all 4 sides. Saw to the lines. Then do all mouldings, rebates, other detail if any. Then cut the tenon shoulders last of all.
Do a few trial runs on some scrap?
No need for either if saw cut accurate to start with.....
Can ensure the surface of the tenon is parallel to the body of the piece.
Can adjust the thickness of the tenon in incredibly fine margins.
Chisel.Can clean out the corners for a flush fit.