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How to get Myford ML8 Engineering chuck

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bobblezard

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I'm hoping for a bit of advice. I've been waiting for an engineering chuck for the ML8 to come around for sale for a while and not seen anything. Was thinking most likely a 4" self centering chuck with both internal and external stepped jaws.
I'm hoping to get sorted soon.
My research seems to offer 4 broad options.
1. Buy a versachuck, engineering jaws and 1x12" backplate
2. Buy the versa chuck backplate and try to fit this to a suitable Pratt burnerd chuck or similar
3. Buy a thread adaptor, most likely to 1 1/8" X 12tpi to use a chuck threaded for the ML7
OR
4. Buy a threaded (but 'undrilled'?) backplate and fit to a generic chuck.
This option though cheapest seem to offer the most likelihood for error and I'm not confident to set up to the required tolerances first time.
My main concern re: the thread adaptor is bearing wear/is it less likely to run true?

Does anyone have experience of trying these options or gave any general advice?

Obviously ideally I'd just like to buy a used chuck with the correct backplate fitted...
 

clogs

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try looking at
modelengineering.co.uk
homeworkshop.org.uk

always plenty of info on the first site....the second has stuff for sale and u can place a wanted add for free......both good sites....
hope this helps a little.......
 

bobblezard

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try looking at
modelengineering.co.uk
homeworkshop.org.uk

always plenty of info on the first site....the second has stuff for sale and u can place a wanted add for free......both good sites....
hope this helps a little.......
Thanks I'll take a look
 

dickm

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If you want to do serious metalwork, then I would strongly advise AGAINST a self-centring 4-jaw. Less precise and much less versatile than one with four independent jaws. OK, they can be a pain to set up (still trying remotely to teach my daughter how to set up work in the 4-jaw on her Unimat!) but the learning curve is worth it, and independent jaw chucks are usually cheaper and more easily located.
 

bobblezard

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If you want to do serious metalwork, then I would strongly advise AGAINST a self-centring 4-jaw. Less precise and much less versatile than one with four independent jaws. OK, they can be a pain to set up (still trying remotely to teach my daughter how to set up work in the 4-jaw on her Unimat!) but the learning curve is worth it, and independent jaw chucks are usually cheaper and more easily located.
Hi Dick, thanks for the advice. I'm not thinking about serious metal work as such - after all I will be using a Myford ML8 - but I do hope to be able to turn small bits of decoration and components for my projects.
I just thought a self centering chuck would be easier and familiar (like my woodturning chucks) but your suggestions are interesting thanks, I guess it might open out my options when looking for a 1x12tpi chuck
 

Jelly

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Hi Dick, thanks for the advice. I'm not thinking about serious metal work as such - after all I will be using a Myford ML8 - but I do hope to be able to turn small bits of decoration and components for my projects.
I just thought a self centering chuck would be easier and familiar (like my woodturning chucks) but your suggestions are interesting thanks, I guess it might open out my options when looking for a 1x12tpi chuck
It really depends vwhat you want to do, but if you're only going to have one metalworking chuck, and need to do anything reasonably precise (certainly once you're looking to get better than within 0.003"/0.075mm tolerances) an independent 4-Jaw chuck is a necessity.

Most lathe owners will have a 3-jaw self centering for convenience on less critical work, and a 4-jaw independent for precise work involving flipping parts round or boring concentric to the OD of a part.

So if you don't expect to need the precision a self centering chuck is fine, but you'll have a much easier time looking for a 3-jaw.
 

TFrench

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For what you'll be doing a 3 jaw is fine. Do you have the metalwork crosslide on your ml8? It does make it more capable, but its still not that rigid and it is certainly a pain to fit!
Do you have a modern 4 jaw scroll chuck like a nova already? If so, you can take the jaws off and use the bare carriers to hold small pieces. If you're working with files or chisels (on brass they do work) this is quite a nice option as the chuck is smooth and has nothing to catch your tool.
 

Fergie 307

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A self catering chuck is fine as long as you are not going to do anything where you might need to turn the part round and machine the other end. A self catering chuck will never run absolutely true. So you can turn a perfectly round part but If you then flip it round it will be running out by whatever the error of the chuck is, so the two ends will not be concentric. If you need to do this sort of thing then an independent jaw chuck is the way to go, bit of practice needed to set it up accurately, but accuracy is only limited by your skill or the time you are prepared to take.
 

dickm

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The other advantage of the independent jaw chuck is that should you want to surface, or turn a spigot/spindle on something that is not round, then you can accommodate that without the workpiece having to be exactly round/square and the turned bit having to be in the centre of the workpiece. In my case (using Super 7) this is often more relevant than five figure precision. (OK, that's a criticism of my metalwork!)
 

SammyQ

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Here you go. One TOTALLY UNUSED chuck, plus two sets spare jaws (inside and outside?) plus a chuck key if I can find it.
No present idea as to worth, but look at the greased paper wrapping I had to remove to take the pictures.
Sam

Sorry photo posting problems, will try again shortly.
 
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bobblezard

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Hi all, thanks for the advice + I can see the benefits of the independent jaw chuck but worry I might struggle initially. I like the combo you suggest Jelly - but as I indicated I was having difficulty finding anything for a while. Ideally in future I will have both the 3 jaw self centering and a 4 jaw independent, but would probably like to kick off with the former.
TFrench thanks yes I do have the cross-slide and also wood chucks. I'd been muddling on turning brass rod with hss woodturning tools, like you say it works... I am hoping to up my game and learn a few new skills but not going to be a full on metalhead 😎
Thanks again for the advice folks
 

bobblezard

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Here you go. One TOTALLY UNUSED chuck, plus two sets spare jaws (inside and outside?) plus a chuck key if I can find it.
No present idea as to worth, but look at the greased paper wrapping I had to remove to take the pictures.
Sam

Sorry photo posting problems, will try again shortly.
Sammy, that's so kind of you to look that out - I much appreciate it and am, if course, very interested. I'll send you a pm to discuss.
Thank you 😎 that's one of the things I love about this forum
 
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