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How much toe in?

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devonwoody

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I put my engineers square on my table saw today and positioned the tool against the fence and at both ends of the saw blade.
Around half a millimetre runout, which might be blade distortion of saw slightly askew. Not pinching .larger end at back.

Whats the norm?
 

Jorden

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On my Xcalibur the blade and fence are parallel, but I've seen other saws with about half a mil toe out on a 10 inch blade. Some manufacturers think it will reduce the chances of kickback.
My last saw, a Record was a pain to keep true, so I used it with the fence slid back to half way along the blade ie, only the first half of the blade had a fence. I found it helped stop the fence compounding its errors, and felt safer.

Dennis
 

johnelliott

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The relationship of the saw blade to fence should always be such that the rear of the blade is a little further from the fence than the front. The question is, of course, by how much. I remember Scrit (much missed from this forum) saying that on Altendorfs this setting is adjusted for by ear.
Sometimes it is possible to see the saw marks in the edge that has been cut. If any are visible which show an up curve (from the back of the blade) then, IMO, some adjustment is needed
John
 

Travis Byrne

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Hello Devonwoody
I use the method that John decribes.
If you can see/hear the rear of the blade cutting, then its time to adjust.
Sometime this means getting the fence parallel to the blade. With a good blade and a "tuned" fence, you can do a glue up without using the jointer.
Travis
 
A

Anonymous

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I've seen 1/64 of an inch at the end of the table mentioned in a couple places. Usually this is combined with a mention of "European aux fences" that stop at the end of beginning of the blade to allow for separation.

It sounded reasonable, though I have yet to ever see a picture of a European aux fence ;-)
 

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