How much of this waney edge must I chisel away?
- Thread starter Grantx
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
I haven't done a resin project, but I have done a couple of live edge slab projects. I would remove the bark and anything loose. I assume that there is nothing too soft on your slabs.
If you remove too much you may as well not have want/live edge. If you have to remove more than you want to, you can fake the live edge to some degree.
Chisel may work, it is useful to have a wire bush that fits in a drill in your arsenal too. I think mine was brass. I also bought a fibre type brush (both from Toolstation) but I don't recall whether I used that one. It is good to have a couple of options after the initial removal. If you do more of these, a draw knife is handy.
Once you get started removing bark, you will soon get an instinct where to stop removal and to tidy up what you have done.
If you remove too much you may as well not have want/live edge. If you have to remove more than you want to, you can fake the live edge to some degree.
Chisel may work, it is useful to have a wire bush that fits in a drill in your arsenal too. I think mine was brass. I also bought a fibre type brush (both from Toolstation) but I don't recall whether I used that one. It is good to have a couple of options after the initial removal. If you do more of these, a draw knife is handy.
Once you get started removing bark, you will soon get an instinct where to stop removal and to tidy up what you have done.
As the bark isnt full length and only in sections, you might get away with leaving it in place, especially if the resin is clear, for coloured it doesnt matter and you should remove it.
I'm considering it as being left on because the resin will stick to the stripped areas acting like a glue which will hold it on so the weak adhered nature of the bark wont affect the structure, plus as its likely to be fixed to rails, then again its likely to remain structurally strong.
I'm considering it as being left on because the resin will stick to the stripped areas acting like a glue which will hold it on so the weak adhered nature of the bark wont affect the structure, plus as its likely to be fixed to rails, then again its likely to remain structurally strong.
Last edited:
Sean Hellman
Established Member
I would pry the bark off as carefully as possible and scrape and then sand by hand the waney edge trying to keep the natural texture of the wood as possible.
Cabinetman
Established Member
And just hope that you don’t have woodworm burrowing their way through the sapwood – that pale white strip just under the bark, it’s that bit softer for them to get their teeth into. It’s quite common to find live grubs just where the bark and the sapwood meet as well. Ian
Grantx
Established Member
Thanks for pointing that out. How do I test that it is free of grubs? I have (naively?) presumed two things:
1. This board would have been kiln dried
2. Kiln drying kills bugs.
Cabinetman
Established Member
I don’t think you’re being naive at all and your two assumptions are probably correct, I have a few times had woodworm in timber that should have been free of it, I could only conclude that the timber had been stored for two or three years after it had been kiln dried or the kiln drying hadn’t been done very well.
I await the finished piece with interest. Ian
I await the finished piece with interest. Ian
Based on my vast experience (I looked this up yesterday) if the moisture content is kept below 12% for a prolonged period the beasties die. Having been sold some tat in the past (Travis Perkins 26% moisture content) I now put a meter on anything before excepting delivery and won't buy at over 10% moisture content
Grantx
Established Member
Wood moisture meter arriving tomorrow.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wood-Moisture-Meter-Detector-Humidity/dp/B0886JCGL5
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wood-Moisture-Meter-Detector-Humidity/dp/B0886JCGL5
Cabinetman
Established Member
You may find as a lot of people have that the next time you pick your detector up the battery is flat, some drain the battery when not in use so best to disconnect it. Ian
Woody2Shoes
Impressive Member
Facetious answer: all of it!
Personally, I can't wait for the waney-resin fad to blow over ....
Personally, I can't wait for the waney-resin fad to blow over ....
Grantx
Established Member
I was waiting for this. I know there is a love/hate on this forum regarding resin and I debated whether to post this thread mentioning it, but at the end of the day it's a learning curve I need to go through. I do intend making an oak table with no resin and that is my next project.I really don't know at this stage where it will lead but I have to explore the options to see where my passion and skill take me.
shed9
establiSHED member
Whilst I'm in the same camp as Woody2Shoes on this in that the waney edged resin fad has had its day I have seen some pieces get it right in my opinion. I think the trick is to keep it subtle with the resin colour and the edge itself.
Grantx
Established Member
For your amusement... I'm sure there are lots of things I'm doing wrong that I don't even know yet haha. Boards are clamped and (hopefully) sealed. I will need approximately 750ml of resin. Going to do this in 2 pours as resin has a max of 10ml depth per pour.
Attachments
Grantx
Established Member
Grantx
Established Member
Got lucky. Moisture level is below 10. 2nd layer was poured and it is hard but will leave it a further 24hrs before removing it from the base.
Any ideas on how to finish the project off? The chap in this video uses osmo for a polished finish.
Then there is a varnish or lacquer finish.
Any ideas on how to finish the project off? The chap in this video uses osmo for a polished finish.
Then there is a varnish or lacquer finish.
