How do you champher with a block plain?

[LFS19]

I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on champhering with a block plain.

I'm unsure how to go straight across and get a straight champher, and also how to accuretly determine angle.
I'm using a number 4.

Thanks allot.

 

[transatlantic]

Depending on the size of the chamfer, any slight inaccuracies you make by hand would be barely noticeable imo. But if you really want accuracy, you could buy/create a simple jig.

Here is something that popped up from a google image search

 

[Racers]

You can get a cleaner cut by skewing the plane and pushing it sideways, I count the number of passes to determine the width of chamfer.

Pete

 

[bridger]

Mark the limits of the chamfer with a pencil. A combination square works pretty well, a pencil compass will do or if you have a pencil marking guage use that.

 

[David C]

Pete has it.

If there is endgrain involved skew the plane quite a lot.

If long grain don't.

I reckon 60 1/2 best for end grain and if you have one 09 1/2 (or bench plane) best for long grain. Long grain may tear out if the timber is interlocked and brittle. Increase EP or use a scraper plane.

Practice estimating angle with a small 45 degree scrap.

David

 

[matthewwh]

Are you chamfering for finish on the workpiece or chamfering waste before removing it?

If chamfering waste so that you can see what you are doing when removing it you only need to worry about hitting one gauge line. If you want to end up with a neatly chamfered component you will need to lay it out first or use a chamfer plane (or both).

 

[swagman]

Theres always the traditional approach. A Boxed Chamfer Plane.

 

[Trafalgar]

I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on champhering with a block plain.

I'm unsure how to go straight across and get a straight champher, and also how to accuretly determine angle.
I'm using a number 4.

Thanks allot.

If you mark the chamfer the same distance off the reference face and edge (for the chamfer to be run) then the resulting chamfer will be at 45*

Traditionally one marks these with a pencil so there is no line still showing on the chamfer after it is run. I like to mark them with a gauge and scribe the line very lightly and just take it out. If a little of the line remains it looks better than the inevitable bit of pencil one fails to remove, usually by sandpaper, which can also destroy the crispness of the chamfer in spots. If you use a hard(er) pencil and the wood is relatively soft you get an impression in the wood anyway. Might as well gauge it lightly -- the mark is much crisper.

Take special note of which way the grain runs during layout if chamfers are planned . You don't want to end up fighting the grain on every piece which is to be be treated. For chamfers running across the grain don't leave yourself with swirly, gnarly grain right where the chamfer is to be produced. You'll regret this when a large chunk gets torn out leaving you with a workpiece that might be difficult to replace.

You might end up preferring a No. 3 to run your chamfers but whatever you use you should practice with before working on live project stock. The most important think is not over-running the marks that define the chamfer. To this end, be very careful when (if) skewing whatever plane you end up using.

 

[D_W]

Ditto what Bridger says. Square and pencil. This is yet another place where a double iron excels, allowing a heavy cut with no risk of deep tearing.