How do people rip sawn boards to fit though their p/t'ers?

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gidon

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For the first time I had some Oak boards which were over 10" wide and just too wide for my p/t'er. I needed the maximum width because they are for some shelves. But scratched my head because I couldn't think of the easiest way to get these boards to the correct size (9.75") for the p/t'er.

They needed to be 1.5m long. The problem being of course that the edges were far from straight - so risk of kick back if just ripping the boards on the table saw. Did consider a handplane to get an edge straight but realised it was unrealistic that I'd get a straighter edge than was there already with a #5 - and quickly!

Could have used circular saw + straight edge I suppose but in the end got an straight edge on the jointer. Little tricky when I didn't have a smooth face to put against the fence. And finally did rip the boards to rough width on the table saw - but again not ideal because boards so rough.

So what do you folks favour - especially ones with 6" jointers who must be doing this all the time!

Cheers

Gidon
 
Well I have an 8" jointer, but I'm still doing this all the time!
Why people take sawn timber to a TS amazes me! It's so dangerous.

I snap a straight line with a chalk line, whizz it through the bandsaw by eye and clean up on the jointer.
For wide boards, I resaw on the bandsaw to manageable widths, surface plane, edge joint and thickness as usual and then glue them back up again.
On many woods you can get a near invisible joint as the bandsaw removes such a small amount of material.
 
Hi Gidon,
I have a 6 inch jointer, so I come up against this a lot.
Aragorn has this thread pretty tied up-the bandsaw is great for a fine kerf. No point making sawdust out of fine timber! :lol: And it is much safer than the table saw when ripping (especially if the timber is air dried, I find). I recently made a top for a sideboard out of elm, 18 inches wide. One of the boards I wanted to use had wonderful figuring but was 11 inches wide-after the piece was jointed up using the above method you would never know it had been cut up and re-joined.
Cheers
Philly :D
 
'Nother vote for the bandsaw here.

gidon":w7bdrl7z said:
Did consider a handplane to get an edge straight but realised it was unrealistic that I'd get a straighter edge than was there already with a #5 - and quickly!
Tsk, tsk.

Cheers, Alf
 
Is this some sort of conspiracy?

I don't have a bandsaw - has been the "next purchase" for over a year. Money sort of ran out :(. This is another resounding reason (the list is growing) for getting one!

Thanks all,

Gidon
 
Never!
I did see a very nice Centauro bandsaw on ebay last week - for sale in S. Cornwall - Looe - only 45 mins from here. I was very very tempted - especially as it hovered around £250 until the last day - and then went for £500. Still a good price - looked perfect condition and over £1000 6 months ago.
Cheers
Gidon
 
Gidon

Clamp a peice of wood to it and run the circular saw along this guide.

Clamp a peice of wood to it and run router along length
 
I do the same as Tony; straight edge and circular saw, before giving the edge a tickle with the #7. If I'm being really fussy, I check the edge for true with a 6' builders level.

I'm sure I've seen links here for a jig to use on the table saw that clamps a wany edge board for sawing; the jig rides in the mitre slot. Given some serious thought to making one of these myself....
 
Midnight,

You didn't look at the link in my post above, I use a piece of chipboard and 2 toggle clamps to do this, go look at the pictures :roll:
 
Dave - good idea with the sled - also gets around running the unsmooth surface over the table saw. Will consider doing this if I don't have a bandsaw before I have to do this again!
Thanks for the helpful replies.
Cheers
Gidon
 
Dave... I did TOO.... like I said... didn't remember where...

last night wasn't particularly good... no sleep the night before and pumped fulla meds.... my back blew out 2 weeks ago

my excuse an I'm stickin to it...
;)
 
Just saw a GBW show where the chap attached his straight edge guide clamp to the side of his rough stock and ran that against the fence. Quite a good idea - although not sure I'd trust the clamping pressure of one of them with my table saw.
Cheers
Gidon
 
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