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cd

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Hi all
I'm planning on building a router table for a router I don't yet have :!: .
I've cheated a bit and bought a ready made top from Rutlands in there sale so the overall cabinet dimensions are pretty much decided but I'm not sure how much room to leave for the router.
I'm looking to get the Triton router to put in my table but probably not for a couple of months (Birthday coming up :) ) so I plan to build the table before but want to make sure i've left enough room to operate it comfortably.
This is the sort of thing I'm planning

and I'm interested in what height and width the make the router space.
TIA

cd
Picture from plans here which I think are quite good.
 

JFC

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Hi CD , still no successful logs yet :lol:
I have a Default 625 but i think the Triton is a little bigger in bulk .Making the router a tight fit under the table may be a bad idea as even with extraction some of the sawdust still falls down into the router housing and builds up pretty quick . If you still want to go this way then maybe make the back of the fence and the router housing unit one big extractor housing that you can attach a hose onto . Open backed if you like .
Anyway if you want actual sizes i will measure in the morning after trying another log making attempt :lol:
Oh and you want to allow for a fine height adjuster on the y axis just incase you add one to your set up later on .
 

Bean

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Hi it may be worth pm'ing Tony he has a Triton in that style of table

Bean
 

Argee

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cd":mxcz3geo said:
I'm looking to get the Triton router to put in my table but probably not for a couple of months (Birthday coming up :) ) so I plan to build the table before but want to make sure i've left enough room to operate it comfortably.
A couple of things to bear in mind, Cd - you'll need to be able to get to the switch easily, even though you may well have an external on/off. This is because the way the Triton is built - you will not be able to raise it into the bit-changing position with the router's power switch in the "on" position. It's no big deal - you just need to be able to manually switch it on and off to utilise the above-table bit-changing facility.

Secondly, using the fine adjuster requires the rack and pinion winding gear to be engaged. Again, this is no big deal - I use it all the time to raise/lower in increments before I micro-adjust the height, but you'll need space to get your hands in there to use it. This would not be the case if you had a raiser, but that would be such a waste, as the Triton is about the only router that doesn't need one.

I'd recommend removing the plunge spring for use in a table - but leave the plunge spring cap off too - that way, dust will fall straight through and not build up inside the cap, which can prevent the router from raising fully after a while.

If you haven't guessed, I'm delighted with mine.

Ray.
 

beejay

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Hi CD,
Just measured mine :D and the height you will need is 13" to accomodate the flex shoulder without bending it.
Width is 12" handle to handle so i reckon you would need 15" to allow for hand adjustment when mounted :shock: . The other handle does come off so that would give you about 2" to play with.
hope this helps.

beejay

http://community.webshots.com/user/eunos9
 

cd

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thanks all for you replies looks like if I use beejays measurments perhaps even a little larger I should be fine. I just didn't want to find out in two months time that there was not enough room
JFC":2izua7my said:
Making the router a tight fit under the table may be a bad idea as even with extraction some of the sawdust still falls down into the router housing and builds up pretty quick.
I had thought I would probably add some dust extracion to the "box" below the table that the router sits in.

Its my first go at a router table so i'm sure I'll want to change it as soon as its built :wink: but I'm trying to get it as right as possible.

Any way all being well build starts this weekend
I'll post some pics if I remember

cd
 
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