Honing Guide

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keithkarl2007

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ireland
I'm looking to get a honing guide to help sharpen my chisels and plane irons. I am sharpening using the Scary Sharp method and was wondering can any honing guide be used to h using hone his method? I know there are many different honing guides out there, some far superior than others. At the moment funds are kinda low (well low in the tool kitty after a couple of tool purchases) so I'm looking for something that will give good results and is affordable. Anyone have any good recommendations?
 
keithkarl2007":1jbh04un said:
I'm looking to get a honing guide to help sharpen my chisels and plane irons. I am sharpening using the Scary Sharp method and was wondering can any honing guide be used to h using hone his method? I know there are many different honing guides out there, some far superior than others. At the moment funds are kinda low (well low in the tool kitty after a couple of tool purchases) so I'm looking for something that will give good results and is affordable. Anyone have any good recommendations?

Veritas MKII works well for me.

Not the cheapest but worth the money IMHO?

Good luck,
 
Thanks guys. Paul, I had been looking at a couple of Eclipse hone guides on Flea Bay. Didn't realize Axi had a newer version of them. Would they be suitable for wider blades like plane irons.? I understand they are ideal for producing cambers on irons but wasn't sure if they would be ok for keeping the cutting edge square.
 
Hi,

+1 for Eclipse or its clones, some will try and persuade you not to use one but if you feel you need to, go ahead, you can go free hand but with Scary Sharp its easy to gouge the paper.
You can do a cambered blade by pressing harder on the edges with a Eclipse or do a square edge.
Get a tube of Autosol and strop your blades for a better edge.

Pete
 
keithkarl2007":p2aj0bmw said:
Paul, I had been looking at a couple of Eclipse hone guides on Flea Bay. Didn't realize Axi had a newer version of them. Would they be suitable for wider blades like plane irons.? I understand they are ideal for producing cambers on irons but wasn't sure if they would be ok for keeping the cutting edge square.

That one takes blades up to 3" wide, so will be suitable for all your blades. You can produce a camber or a straight edge by varying where you put finger pressure on the edge of the blade while honing.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Hi Keith or is it Karl?,

I began with the Eclipse (£3) and have been very happy with it, still used from time to time, when travelling.
After 20 years, I bought the MKII (5 years now), also very happy with it.

Eclipse;
Pros= Small light , travels well due to small size.
Cons= Dosnt hold my wide plane blades to well, same for the narrower chisles. Difficult to hold.

MKII;
Pros= Holds everything I put in it, small through to largest. Added weight keeps it in full contact with the ezelap thus preventing dig in on the push stroke. Large enough that I can hold it well, low down. Settings for lots of angles, especially since buying the LABU No62.
Cons= Expensive, Travels badly due to being bulky.

Happy Honing :D
 
Dovetaildave":1e4pce6p said:
Hi Keith or is it Karl?,

I began with the Eclipse (£3) and have been very happy with it, still used from time to time, when travelling.
After 20 years, I bought the MKII (5 years now), also very happy with it.

Eclipse;
Pros= Small light , travels well due to small size.
Cons= Dosnt hold my wide plane blades to well, same for the narrower chisles. Difficult to hold.

MKII;
Pros= Holds everything I put in it, small through to largest. Added weight keeps it in full contact with the ezelap thus preventing dig in on the push stroke. Large enough that I can hold it well, low down. Settings for lots of angles, especially since buying the LABU No62.
Cons= Expensive, Travels badly due to being bulky.

Happy Honing :D

Thanks Dave. Looks like i'll have to dig deeper into my pocket :)
 
I wouldn't bother with guides and jigs and get back to simple freehand basics instead. Paul Sellers describes it well here but you can use oil stones - cheaper than diamond plates and last for life.
It's worth getting on top of sharpening early or you can be distracted by all the crazy systems and expensive bits of kit on offer.
 
Is the guide to be used specifically for honing or establishing/re-grinding primary bevels?

I can understand a certain need for jigs if establishing/re-establishing primary bevels, but not for honing, as it's far simpler and quicker to hone/whet an edge freehand and without training wheels.
 
Thanks guys. Jacob, I've never sharpened chisels for fine woodworking before. I also do a little woodturning and when I started I found it incredibly difficult to sharpen the tools freehand. I know woodworking chisels would be far easier to sharpen and maintain a consistent repeatable bevel as it's a straight edged tool. I'm only a hobbiest so don't mind spending extra time sharpening tools properly.
 
Freehand is easier - not much skill required at all, just a bit of practice to get your hand in. Anybody can do it.
I find fiddling with jigs more of a problem and was really pleased to get away from them.
 
There are no right or wrong ways of doing things if you achieve the end result you want.
 
I'm sure there are people who, for various reasons, might need some mechanical assistance in order to sharpen a blade so it's fit for purpose. But I also suspect that there are more still who think they need this help when they really don't.

It seems sensible to me to try sharpening with a technique that you already have the tools for (i.e. freehand). Then, if you find that you can't get reasonable results, you either need to improve your technique or buy something that helps you to get better results without having to improve your technique.

Since you're asking for recommendations of what jig to buy, I assume that you have already reached the conclusion that you are in the latter camp. People have already made some recommendations for you. I used to use the Veritas Mk 2 jig and, if you want to use a jig, it seems as good as anything (although not cheap -- which is what you wanted).

However, while you're deciding what to buy, it might be worth trying out the technique that Jacob has suggested as it might improve your freehand attempts to the point where you suddenly can't see the need for a jig. I haven't used any sharpening jigs for a long time and I think my sharpening is better and faster than ever.
 
I suffer badly from rheumatoid arthritis and especially in my hands - hence the need to retire from work prematurely - and yet I find using honing guides far more difficult to use than working freehand. Primarily due to the fiddle on trying to set up and adjust the darned things. I'm not discounting the ability/disability of others when I suggest freehand honing is easier, as everyone is different and has the right to use whichever methods they're most comfortable with, BUT learning to refresh an edge isn't rocket science and once a skill is learned/mastered it's with you for life. Regardless of debility.
 
GazPal":6lyf80h3 said:
I suffer badly from rheumatoid arthritis and especially in my hands - hence the need to retire from work prematurely - and yet I find using honing guides far more difficult to use than working freehand. Primarily due to the fiddle on trying to set up and adjust the darned things. I'm not discounting the ability/disability of others when I suggest freehand honing is easier, as everyone is different and has the right to use whichever methods they're most comfortable with, BUT learning to refresh an edge isn't rocket science and once a skill is learned/mastered it's with you for life. Regardless of debility.
Sorry to hear that Gary. I'm staggering on and getting older but OK so far. Slight hiccup over a knee - a year ago I had a mobility scooter but not for long!


Iis easy, cheap, cheaper if you use oil stones: http://paulsellers.com/2012/01/sharpeni ... ro-bevels/

.
 
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