Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
For any who followed the apple turning thread I wanted to just report a couple of helpful pointers that made an enormous difference to a home made screw chuck I made today.
In the struggle to perfect the apple technique I threw out a poorly made screw chuck as unfit for purpose. I was really struggling to get the screw to run true after it was installed despite being ultra careful with the Jacobs chuck pilot hole boring operation. Had a brew and scratched the head, googled about a bit and found some guy who puts his Jacobs chuck in the headstock morse taper and grips the screw. This allows you to re-turn the spigot on the back of the screw chuck which will now be perfectly centred on the screw since that's now in the axis of the spindle. So I did this, being careful to avoid the Jacobs chuck working out of the spindle by locking it with the side of the toolrest, and then reversed it again in the now true spigot and re-faced off the front which had the screw poking out of it.
The advice was to make the face ever so slightly concave which I did. Once done, I brought up the tailstock centre to check it for runout and it was better than my commercially made screw chuck. So the Jacobs chuck in the headstock step really solved the poor runout problem.
I also used a longer screw than the one I made yesterday because the dimple in the apples is actually quite deep and that took up so much of my screw protrusion that precious little was left to grip the work.
I also turned down a lot of the wood on the face so it leaves room to get access to any details you might want to on any future piece of work.
All in all a vast improvement on my first screw chucks which had major design flaws. This is purpose designed for fruit. Thought it worth reporting to the folks who are on the apple trail in case you bump into the same technical difficulties I found
Didn't take any photos, sorry.
In the struggle to perfect the apple technique I threw out a poorly made screw chuck as unfit for purpose. I was really struggling to get the screw to run true after it was installed despite being ultra careful with the Jacobs chuck pilot hole boring operation. Had a brew and scratched the head, googled about a bit and found some guy who puts his Jacobs chuck in the headstock morse taper and grips the screw. This allows you to re-turn the spigot on the back of the screw chuck which will now be perfectly centred on the screw since that's now in the axis of the spindle. So I did this, being careful to avoid the Jacobs chuck working out of the spindle by locking it with the side of the toolrest, and then reversed it again in the now true spigot and re-faced off the front which had the screw poking out of it.
The advice was to make the face ever so slightly concave which I did. Once done, I brought up the tailstock centre to check it for runout and it was better than my commercially made screw chuck. So the Jacobs chuck in the headstock step really solved the poor runout problem.
I also used a longer screw than the one I made yesterday because the dimple in the apples is actually quite deep and that took up so much of my screw protrusion that precious little was left to grip the work.
I also turned down a lot of the wood on the face so it leaves room to get access to any details you might want to on any future piece of work.
All in all a vast improvement on my first screw chucks which had major design flaws. This is purpose designed for fruit. Thought it worth reporting to the folks who are on the apple trail in case you bump into the same technical difficulties I found
Didn't take any photos, sorry.