Home made turning tools

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Paul Hannaby":1g4gn88m said:
Catches can happen with any tool and it isn't always due to poor or incorrect bevel contact because in the case of normal scrapers, there isn't usually any bevel contact.

Going back to your earlier statement about files - they are hardened "glass hard" and are brittle so any shock loading (which can happen in turning) could result in the file breaking or possibly shattering, resulting in shrapnel travelling at high speed. Traditionally, turning tools were hardened and then tempered to reduce their hardness while increasing their toughness so they don't snap when receiving a shock load.

I put this to the test once by deliberately hitting a file which someone had made into a turning tool with a "shock load" - it snapped!

If you really know what you are doing and can correctly heat treat a file or other piece of metal to make a turning tool, that's fine but advocating that anyone should use a file without correct heat treatment is downright irresponsible.

You can temper the file in your oven so it isn't so brittle. Turn the oven on to 400F to 450F (205C to 230C) and when warm put the file in. Heat it for a couple hours and remove it. When cool repeat. Turn off the oven and hide the evidence of you being in the kitchen. ;) The file should take the shock loads you are worried about.

Pete
 
A friend of ours has called to say that while clearing his shed out he has found a couple dozen tools I can have, he used to have a lathe and thought he had got rid of the tools with the lathe years ago, I will probably still make my own tools too, I like the idea of making something with something I've made.
 
I've made a faceplate for a Longworth chuck but can't find anything appropriate to use as soft grip holders. Basically I need a silicone tube sandwiched between two washers that expands as the bolt through it is tightened. Any ideas or suggestions? It needs to be able to grip the bowl so silicon seems the best option.
 
You might be better starting a new thread as it's a bit off topic for this one.
Several members have made similar items. If I remember correctly some used door stoppers, not very successfully & others used clear plastic hose over a wooden core.
 
1/$ inch HSS steel is not expensive, I buy 3 inch lengths for a couple of pounds each then a 12 or 13 mm mild steel rod again for a couple of pounds per foot. I make my own Oland Tools and also make my own skew with the same material. Here is an article on making a gouge aroundthewoods.com/oland.shtml
 
lurker":19cehuic said:
I would not contemplate using a file.
If you are that hard up just find another hobby.

Phil's suggestion is a good one as a start point.
Bit harsh mate, We weren't all born with a sliver spoon in our mouths. By the same token, I shouldn't get my tools from Aldi.
 
Go ahead and make your tools. They may not hold an edge for long but you won't know until you try. I have no fear of them breaking by anything you can do to them on a lathe as they were meant to beat their way through brick, concrete and stone. They are tough as H E double hockey sticks. The steel may or may not be hardenable depending on the alloy. I would try as is and if you think it too soft then heat the tips with an oxyacetylene torch and quench in oil. Canola oil smells better than motor oil. If that doesn't work you learned something.

Pete
 
I've made a faceplate for a Longworth chuck but can't find anything appropriate to use as soft grip holders. Basically I need a silicone tube sandwiched between two washers that expands as the bolt through it is tightened. Any ideas or suggestions? It needs to be able to grip the bowl so silicon seems the best option.

I used some "Helix" brand rubbers (erasers if you are from the USA) for home made remounting/coles jaws, 2 pack in Tesco or similar costs about £1, sharp knife gives you the shape you need. Seems just the right blend of soft + grippy. Treat yourself to 2 packs even.

I'm only using it for light final finishing cuts and sanding bowls up to about 8", not sure I would trust it with big unbalanced chunks.
 
I'm using golf balls that have been cut in half, remove and discard the white outer, the middle is a very hard slightly rubberized stuff that grips fairly well & doesn't leave marks. Drill hole a suitable size for bolt, then sand to create a flat on the round end to make it more stable when bolted to chuck. Works well for me.
 
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