Home made router table.

[Shaggy]

I have some Aldi metal framed workshop shelves and I would like to use the top shelf as a router table.
I have a piece of 18mm ply cut to 36 inches x 18 inches (size of the shelves) and I've found a piece of 8mm ply to cut down to make an insert to mount the router on.

So, will the 18mm be strong enough for the table and will the 8mm be strong enough to use as an insert until I can find a piece of acrylic?

Glen.

 

[Marineboy]

I guess it depends on size and therefore weight of router. I made my table with 18mm MDF and a 6mm ply insert plate. I intended the latter to be a temporary solution pending potential purchase of a ‘proper’ plate, but it works fine with my Bosch 1/4 inch so I’m staying with it. I doubt if it would be adequate for a 1/2 inch router though.

 

[sunnybob]

8 mm ply wont hold a 1/2" router for very long without sagging.
Even the KREG 9mm resin plate will sag (I know, my second warranty replacement plate is now no longer 100% flat) so the ply doesnt stand much chance.

18 mm ply will be strong enough for the table, but unless youre extremely careful with it the surface will scratch up pretty quick. Best to use something like melamine coated.

Next time I replace the plate on mine it will be a metal plate.

 

[ScaredyCat]

I got my acrylic from this eBay seller it arrived within a day. My table is 25mm MDF with an 8mm acrylic router plate and it seems to work but

a) it's only a Katsu trim router
b) I made the opening as small as I practically could.

Your 'hole' only needs to be big enough to fit your router through if it's a temporary thing. If it's more permanent then make the cutout smaller. it doesn't have to be 235 x 305. The smaller the hole the smaller the unsupported area is.

 

[sunnybob]

No way that clear acrylic will hold a 1/2" router for long.

The problem with small holes in router tables is changing bits. i know the Kreg plate is not PERFECTLY straight, but its strength is the interchangeable inserts that allow you you to open up the hole to change bits from above the table, and then fit a smaller insert to just the size of the bit you are using.

having to take the router out each time would be such a faff I dont even want to think about it. i use the router table all the time, changing bits as many as 4 or even 5 times a day.

the american metal plates like woodpecker and jessem are silly prices, way above my pension capacity, but they are unbeatable on convenience.

There used to be a guy on ebay who made stainless steel plates, but I cant find him today.

 

[ScaredyCat]

but its strength is the interchangeable inserts

It depends how much you're prepared to do. This demonstrates home made inserts.

 

[sunnybob]

Its a solution, but not a simple one.
Once he uses that 3/4" wide bit and wants to use a 1 1/2" wide bit he has to cut the hole bigger. But then when he wants to use a 1/4" bit the hole is way too big and the wood will tilt into it. So he needs to make at least four of those base plates.
The Kreg system of interchangeable inserts is a simple buy it and use it package at not very much money, and I am sure it will hold a 1/4" router forever. The resin plates though, from my own experience as well as others, is not man enough to hold a large 1/2" router and still stay perfectly flat.
Although even then, most folk dont NEED perfectly flat, its only because i cut very small / thin / short pieces of wood that I wish for perfection

 

[ScaredyCat]

Its a solution, but not a simple one.
Once he uses that 3/4" wide bit and wants to use a 1 1/2" wide bit he has to cut the hole bigger. But then when he wants to use a 1/4" bit the hole is way too big and the wood will tilt into it. So he needs to make at least four of those base plates.

Not sure what you're getting at. Do you mean the main hole? He's made 4 zero clearance insert plates for different sized bits.

 

[sunnybob]

Must admit I skipped along the video watching the highlights, didnt realise he made more than 1 insert.

 

[Inspector]

I believe you won't have any problem with the 18mm and 8mm plywoods especially if they are cabinet grade rather than construction material. You only need to cut the 8mm plywood large enough for the plywood and router to drop into the hole in the 18mm. You can always add a stiffener or two to the plywood if you see it sagging. Give the top a sanding, a coat or two of linseed oil and paste wax it a few days later. If it ever wears out or you want to "upgrade" to metals, phenolics, other materials go for it. In the mean time you can get on with woodworking.

If you want something a touch better than a stick and two clamps as a fence a few holes in the tabletop along one edge can take a hanger bolt with a wing nut in the one end of the fence and then you only need to use one clamp to locate it. You don't need to buy aluminium tracks etc, unless you want to.

You can spend monies on a router table rivalling the cost of a shaper but it won't make better furniture.

 

[Shaggy]

Thanks for the advice, I think I'll give it a go. If there is enough 8mm I'll make a couple of inserts for different size bits.
My router is quite big so the inserts may not last long before they bow so I'll try and think of something to give a bit of strength.
I'm just a hobbyist so don't need super accuracy it's just for small projects and a bit of fun practice.

Thanks again.
Glen.

 

[Inspector]

Glen humor me and do a little test with your 8mm plywood.

Get a pail or bucket and put the plywood on top. Have someone put a short length of 2x4 or equivalent verticaly on top and press down on the centre of the plywood. Lay a straight edge across the plywood and as they apply more and more weight see how much it takes to deflect the plywood 1mm. Is it more than the weight of your big router? Do they have to put some weight or is it almost all they can before coming off the ground? Got no friends handy. Try just with your knee. You’ll be surprised at how much weight it will take to bend that plywood. It won’t sag enough over time. To make a difference.

 

[Mark Begbie]

FWIW I used 18mm phenolic ply for the main bed of the router table. Although the ply itself is much lower grade it worked fine and the phenolic is good as a low-friction surface.

I believe you won't have any problem with the 18mm and 8mm plywoods especially if they are cabinet grade rather than construction material. You only need to cut the 8mm plywood large enough for the plywood and router to drop into the hole in the 18mm. You can always add a stiffener or two to the plywood if you see it sagging. Give the top a sanding, a coat or two of linseed oil and paste wax it a few days later. If it ever wears out or you want to "upgrade" to metals, phenolics, other materials go for it. In the mean time you can get on with woodworking.

If you want something a touch better than a stick and two clamps as a fence a few holes in the tabletop along one edge can take a hanger bolt with a wing nut in the one end of the fence and then you only need to use one clamp to locate it. You don't need to buy aluminium tracks etc, unless you want to.

You can spend monies on a router table rivalling the cost of a shaper but it won't make better furniture.