Hinge problem

[wellywood]

Is there any way I can take the 'slop' out of a brass hinge? I built SWMBO a replica Victorian sewing box and used a short piano hinge on the lid. The problem is, there is just enough play in the hinge to sometimes prevent the teeth of the lock (on the inside face of the lid but not shown in the pics) from engaging in the mortised lock itself on the front of the box. Could I/should I try to tighten up the hinge and if so, how?

 

[MMUK]

About the only permanent solution would be to drive out the pin and replace it with one a few thou larger in diameter.

 

[wellywood]

Cheers MM. I thought that might be the only way but wanted to check if there was a simpler solution. I even toyed with the idea of filing the holes bigger in the mortise lock to compensate but the pin solution does seem better.

 

[devonwoody]

I would like to have the hinge longer, so perhaps if you are removing the hinge anyway to work on, a longer one with a thicker pin might be the way I would go.

Good looking box and proportions.

 

[wellywood]

I would like to have the hinge longer, so perhaps if you are removing the hinge anyway to work on, a longer one with a thicker pin might be the way I would go.

Good looking box and proportions.

Thanks DW. Here's some pics showing more of the box. It's an Ashley design with some extras by me (carved skirt at the top of the turned pedestal and a finial at the base). The feet, pedestal and carving are in mahogany. Everything above that is veneered mdf with solid mahogany trim. The interior is flocked.

Sorry about the quality of the pics - I'm not a photographer

 

[morro217]

Can't help with the hinge problem, but have to say your box looks excellent! Well done,

 

[Racers]

How about a couple of small blocks on the front of the lid that fit into the corners aligning it when shut, 5-6mm deep and tapered should be enough.

Pete

 

[CHJ]

Short term fix if you are taking hinge off, pin punch the hinge cylinders on the back (hidden) face to take up the slack on the pivot pin.
Will only last until friction wears away the high spots, but could be a quick fix until you can modify another section of hinge or find a better quality replacement.

Or with hinge fully open squeeze the hinge cylinders between some smooth vice jaws to close them up a few thou.

 

[wellywood]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I thought there might have been a simple fix but based on the replies, I think I'll have to replace the hinge with a better quality one with less/no 'slop'. I do have some shorter, good quality hinges so I might end up putting them at either end of the existing rebate and repairing/infilling between. I guess, the longer the hinge, the more exaggerated would be any 'play' in the hinge - common sense I suppose and a lesson learned

 

[dickm]

Lovely piece of work.
The family had a rather tatty Victorian example of a similar sewing table (until it "disappeared" while in storage) and that definitely had two hinges, spaced as far apart as possible on the hinged side. Probably your best and also cheapest solution.

 

[Eric The Viking]

That's a lovely job.

I made a box-jointed octagon early last year - it was hard!

First off, is it piano hinge you've cut to length? If so, do you have offcuts to experiment with? I assume you want to fix the existing hinge rather than fit new one(s) as that would, er, mess up the finish.

I'd cut a couple of new hinges from whatever is left over, assuming you can match hinge and screw hole spacing.
I'd test fit to two long bits of scrap softwood, so you can see if you;re making an improvement. Test for wiggle/play, mark the amount on the scrap stock and un-mount the hinge.

Then, I'd use a smooth-jawed Mole wrench REALLY CAREFULLY to see if you can pinch up the hinge a bit to take the slack out of it, one bit at a time, starting from the ends and working inwards.

They're usually made from brass-plated steel. The better ones are milled brass (as fitted to real pianos), but I doubt you can obtain that any more. You should be able to gently squeeze where the sheet has been rolled over to make the pivot. it might be worth putting aluminium tape on the Mole jaws - ought to allow you to still get good grip but not mark the work. Mole grips aren't parallel jaws, and close to an acute angle, which is what you want. Don't overdo it and prevent the hinge from moving entirely!

If it works, you have a hinge to replace the one fitted. If not you've not made the box worse.

E.

PS: I was wondering about lubrication - it might be worth warming the replacement hinge and running some molten candle wax over it, so that it penetrates. Wipe/scrape off any excess, and what's left in the hinge should help prevent rust and keep it slippery in a reasonably clean way (shouldn't pick up dirt, nor mark anything it comes into contact with). Might not work though.