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Spectric

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Hi all

Looks like I am going to have to hang a couple of interior doors as not mixing at all due to this virus. I will need a hinge jig so I can rout the recesses, any door hangers out there with knowledge and experiece of a jig they use?
 

Coyote

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Gid Joiner on YouTube makes some very simple ones for routing out hinge recesses. Literally out of a few scraps and super glue. You might need to look for a video where he's showing door hanging as I'm not sure he's done a vid specifically on the jigs but they feature pretty regularly.
 

Mike Jordan

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This type made from bits of scrap is useful if working on new materials but if the doors are being fitted to existing frames the hinge cut outs are normally dictated by a the existing sinkings in the frame or casing. It's quicker to cut them by hand . If you do make a template do put all the details on it, cutter size, guide bush size etc. Not as I have done just the hinge size and type.
 

Doug71

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It's not worth buying or making a hinge jig for 2 doors.

Mark round the hinge with a knife, cut this line deeper with a hammer and chisel, remove waste with chisel and/or router.
 

wsb1207

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Hi all

Looks like I am going to have to hang a couple of interior doors as not mixing at all due to this virus. I will need a hinge jig so I can rout the recesses, any door hangers out there with knowledge and experiece of a jig they use?
A decent hinge jig is going to set you back quite a lot of money, I have a Trend jig, about £180. If you're only replacing a couple of doors it's really not worth it. Shoot the door to fit, offer it into position and mark the hinge position from the existing recesses onto the new door, mark around hinge with a stanley knife and chisel out.
 

Mike Jordan

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That's a reckless amount of money for a gadget that you don't really need.
The shop made item speeds the job up and costs nothing, but you can easily do the job by hand.
 

Spectric

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Hi all

I have to admit that my skills with a chisel are questionable even though I do have some Ashley Iisles chiesels but tend to use routers and jigs whenever possible.

I have a couple of doors now but there will be another five and thought buy a jig and once all the doors are done sell it on and offset the loss against having an easier time of doing it. Is this Trend jig for £180 easy to use? I cannot find many used examples so makes me think it will be easy to resell.
 

Mike Jordan

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There are a number of YouTube videos showing how to hang doors, I've just had a look.If you feel that you are able to plane the door to size to fit the frame, fitting the hinges is easy.
 

wsb1207

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That's a reckless amount of money for a gadget that you don't really need.
The shop made item speeds the job up and costs nothing, but you can easily do the job by hand.
Reckless? I've fitted hundreds of doors with this jig, 3 fully adjustable openings to suit any size hinge, cuts exact recess in the lining to match. It's paid for itself many times over.
 

topchippyles

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Used a router for over 30 years cutting hinges and never once used a jig,Set the depth and width on the router and cut on a bit of scrap wood a couple of times to check they are set correctly.You can free hand router within 3mm of the pencil lines and just chisel both ends.Must have hung thousands this way. You will have to fit and mark up the door hinges in the existing frame anyway.
 

Spectric

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Reckless? I've fitted hundreds of doors with this jig, 3 fully adjustable openings to suit any size hinge, cuts exact recess in the lining to match. It's paid for itself many times over.
I assume you are talking about the Trend jig and from your post you must be an experienced door fitter and looking at the Trend jigs it has just raised more questions. I thought it was just a case of a jig and away you go but Trend mentions door stop sizes of upto 11 or 25mm whilst I have measured my doorstop sizes as 32mm so that has not helped. So I need the jig that will do my hinges but also is desirable for resell, I like the one piece as no connector and as I am not on peace work will the quick release sliders be needed?
 

Mike Jordan

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These two tools are good for speeding up and making the job simple.
The Eclipse no 34 butt gauge is used to mark the back edge of the hinge on both the door and rebated frame using the part shown on top. The thickness of the hinge leaf is marked with the bottom part of the gauge.
I always preferred to use a standard marking gauge for the latter because it's easier.to set up.
-image.jpeg
 

stuartpaul

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I've not long that ago finished hanging 11 oak veneer doors into existing openings and considered a jig but nothing can do both the door and lining unless you spend what to me was silly money (I'm not a pro doing this for a living!).

Shoot your doors to size (I tried for penny gap all round where I could). I used air wedges to offer up and then marked existing hinges onto doors. Knifed around hinge then route to cut the recesses on the doors (clamp a wider piece of wood on the door to aid stability) then square up with a chisel. As I'd also taken door stops off I could also 'regularise' the hinge recess in the frame to make life easier as well.

The last one obviously goes in quicker than the first one! I don't regret not getting a jig.
 

owen

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I use a trend one, if you're doing more than 1 door into new frames it makes the job a lot quicker. No measuring or marking the hinges out either
 

Inspector

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With the jig I mentioned earlier in the thread I set the locations and attached it to the door and routed out the recess. Then used the same jig to route the jambs. Offered up the door and added the door stops. Nice part of new construction. The jig once set easily does both door and jamb as it has a little built in notch. Everything a perfect fit if I did my part.

Pete
 

johnnyb

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I'd suggest hanging a door...any door in an existing opening does not really lend itself to jigging.routing recesses to the same depth using a little router massive time saver. I use a jig to drill the inch holes for latches as well(souber) but fitting the door in the frame usually requires putting the hinges where the old recessed are on the frame.(as mentioned) but we often cut a deep recess in the door with none on the frame. frames can be hugely twisted,waisted. in at the bottom and all combinations of out. that lends itself to application of skill to get the thing swinging asap.penny gap is not possible on many doors I'm asked to fit. also the trend jig gives 2 pennies gap(at least at the hinge side)
 
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