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Gloucestershire Elm, Brazilian Mahogany.
Sealed, Buffed, Microcrystalline wax to finish.
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The usual CSS,buffed and Microcrystalline wax finish.

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A few more that have made it out of the shop.
Oak, 120mm dia.

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Oak & Walnut 112mm high
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Oak & Walnut 130mm high,
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Mahogany & Beech, 147mm high.
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All Cellulose sanding sealer, 3wheel buffed and Microcrystalline wax finish.
 
D, Try something simple like my earlier pieces.
Concentrate on the mating surfaces and don't worry about final dimension constraints, just go with the flow from the tools and what the wood is telling you.
You'll soon develop working methods that suit you.
Then as you refine your designs features like mortice and tenon joints where end grain is involved on thinner sections to add joint strength etc. can be added (These also aid in alignment of sections for glue-up)
 
D, Try something simple like my earlier pieces.
Concentrate on the mating surfaces and don't worry about final dimension constraints, just go with the flow from the tools and what the wood is telling you.
You'll soon develop working methods that suit you.
Then as you refine your designs features like mortice and tenon joints where end grain is involved on thinner sections to add joint strength etc. can be added (These also aid in alignment of sections for glue-up)
Hi Chas

Lovely work. I had a look at your PDFs and I get the gist. Can you tell me, have you ever cut the taller segments using a bandsaw rather than chopsaw?
 
Intriguing. I can feel myself being drawn in. I've been playing with a segmented bowl but larger blocks/veneers with a lot of wastage when hollowing so your method looks much more economical than mine. Here is a smaller tester I did earlier but scaling up would make it quite pricey.:cry:
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Using your method I can reduce wastage considerably but may I ask, how did you fettle the segments once cut? Sanding, planing?
They were hand planed, if you really need control then you could make up a shooting board, best to have a go and sort out which method you find gives most consistent results, personally I find any form of hand held sanding to be the most inconsistent and least controllable.

A "decent" table saw would be better than a bandsaw, but if like me you don't have one then bandsaw it is.
 
A table saw! Ah such luxury if only I had the space. I have a shooting board for 90 and 45 but that is for cross grain joints and I can't quite fathom how to plane longitudinally with a consistent angle to suit the long segment. Have to give that some thought.:unsure:
 
Some home dried Cherry, 170mm diameter.
Usual CSS, 3 wheel buffed and Microcrystalline wax finish.

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