Help with "The Router" corner table project

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gidon

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Hi all
I'm not sure anyone has the August/September issue of The Router? It has a project on page 23-27 for an oak corner table, which I thought I'd make with some left over pieces of oak. The legs are tapered but it doesn't say to what amount. It does say that the cross rails are cut at a 5 degree to take account of the taper and splay? Yet the picture of the finished piece doesn't show this. Am I reading this wrong - is there something I've missed.
Cheers
Gidon
 
FYI - the editor of The Router got back to me (that gets a thumbs up from me). The angle is meant to 2 degrees, not 5 - and I thought my school maths had gone to pot!

Now you'll thank me when you dig up this old magazine and decide to make the same thing!

Cheers

Gidon
 
Hi Gidon

That is impressive. I have updated my copy, you never know.

I am thinking of subscribing to one of the routing magazines and my feeling is that The Router seems to be better than Routing.

What do others think?

Cheers
Neil
 
I think The Router is far better than Routing. In fact I don't rate too highly the Nexus chain of mags (Routing, The Woodworker etc) - lot of repetitive info I've found.

The Router is pretty good I think. Obviously because it's based on router work it does sometime tell you how do do something with a router which would be far easier by another method! Shame it's only every other month.

Cheers

Gidon
 
In case anyone is interested this is how it turned out:

cornertable.jpg


Any ideas on a finish? We want to keep it light (in colour). And it will have plants on it. I was going to go with Danish oil but any suggestions welcome. The wood is American white oak - but there may be some European oak in there too! It was quite a nice little project and used up a lot of small pieces I had left over. And gave me a chance to try out the new planer thicknesser for the panels and for thicknessing the 5/8" legs.

Cheers

Gidon
 
Wow Gidon, this is a nice piece.
I am planning to make a table for my sitting room on which I'll have a big lamp. This looks like a perfect design for it.
Could you send me on the Plan by Mail? (I am in ireland, I can't get that magazine :( )

Post the picture when you have completed the finish, anxious to see it :p
 
CYC,

You should be able to get The Router in your nearest branch of Easons. I've often see all the UK comics there. If there isn't a branch near you get your local newsagents to give Eason Distribution in Dublin a call.

Rgds

Noel
 
Thanks Guidon & Noely, I think I could reproduce this project from looking at the picture, or something close enough.
I showed my wife the picture and she said it's VERY nice but she doesn't like tapered legs in general, furthermore she'd prefer a square table top design. Don't get upset Guidon, she didn't mean it :wink:
So I will resume the search for inspiration for a small table for my lamp.

Still looking forward to see the final result on this baby.
 
Ah well - fair enough. Does your wife know how long it took me to get those tapered legs?(!) And as for the round top ....
Anyway if you change your mind, PM me and we can sort something out.
Good luck,
Cheers
Gidon
 
Hi Gidon

Your table looks excellent.

Looking back are there any parts that you would have preferred to do without using the router?

Cheers
Neil
 
Thanks Neil. Well the plans suggested using a template for the legs and trimming the legs to exact size with a router and flush trimming bit. Overall this took a lot longer than just carefully cutting and planing the legs - and I made a couple of mistakes with the router ripping out a chunk of wood when routing in the right direction at an angle to the grain. And one of my bits broke too! That's what comes of using cheap bits.
Otherwise most of the directions made sense. I guess the template method is good - just don't leave too much to trim off and use a good sharp bit.
Cheers
Gidon
 
Thanks Charley. Nice article. I did consider wax but I've already given it its second coat of danish oil! I'm afraid to say that's what I had knocking around and find it an easy finish to apply too. I hope it's not too dark though. I got a chance to apply it using one of those foam brushes a certain American swears by - it's a nice method and less messy than my usual rag method. Interesting in your article you say not to apply wax with steel wool. I must admit that usually I give a light rub with fine steel wool before my last coat of Danish oil. Perhaps that's not a good idea - I may use some 1000 grit wet and dry paper instead.

As an aside I decided to attach the top using oak buttons. Rebated a strip of wood on my router table to produce a 4mm lip (know where this is going?) I though this would be good since I could use the biscuit jointer to add some grooves last thing (easy to get accurate height) and attach the top. Worked fine and saved having to run the router over all the rails - BUT I think the lip may be a little fragile - still it does the job and I must say the wooden buttons add a nice feel to the piece - with some hidden brass screws countersunk in the buttons being the only hardware used.

Cheers

Gidon
 
All done - two coats seemed enough (and I wasn't sure I had enough Danish oil left!):

P9240559_small.jpg


(I thought plant would hide plug socket but no!)

It's actually a little lighter than it looks which is what I wanted. Another reason not to give it another coat.

Cheers

Gidon
 
Gidon,

That does look very good.
I have not used Danish oil but have tried Liberon Finnish oil. I was very please with the results, how do the two compare, do you know?

Could you post a picture of how you fixed the top? I cannot visualise what you described.
 
Thanks. I've not used Finish Oil - but looking in Axminster's catalogue it seems it's very similiar to Danish Oil. Both based on Tung Oil.

Here's a close-up of the button - hope it makes my description clearer. Buttons are quite a common method of fixing table tops. My method was adapted to use my biscuit jointer.

button.jpg


Cheers

Gidon
 
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