Help with keyless chuck removal

[GLFaria]

I have owned for a number of years a Bosch PSB 650 RE drill, of their green (amateur) line. Pretty bad quality piece of equipment, as I have come to expect of the Bosch Green line, bad electronic speed control, totally unreliable at slow speeds, and a worthless keyless chuck. I use it very little, and until now have felt no compelling reason to buy a replacement.

The problem now is I want to replace that worthless chuck with a keyed one, and despite all my efforts I don't manage to remove the thing. I followed the steps according to the drill manual - according to which the mounting screw must have right-handed thread - to no avail. I even went a step further and used a length of pipe for leverage. The chuck did not budge, while the allen key turned into a sort of corkscrew (see picture below). Still fortunate I didn't use a hardened key, I might have broken something.

Has anyone experienced this problem when removing a keyless chuck, or does anyone know a way of dealing with this? Any suggestions?
Right now, I am just drowning the thread in WD40, but am somewhat reluctant of trying again that amount of torque. Something just might give way.

Thanks for any help

G.

 

[Racers]

I thought chuck screws had a left hand thread and the chucks where right handed so it stays on in both forwards and reverse.

Pete

 

[DTR]

I thought chuck screws had a left hand thread and the chucks where right handed so it stays on in both forwards and reverse.

Pete

+1. In my experience the chuck itself has a R/H thread, while at the bottom inside of the chuck there is a seperate screw with a L/H thread.

Having said that, I've got a Makita with a chuck that won't budge :?

 

[NazNomad]

Replacing the Drill Chuck (PSB 650 RE/ PSB 6500 RE/PSB 650 RA)

Removing the Drill Chuck (see figure L)

Clamp the short end of an Allen key 25 into the keyless chuck.

Place the machine on a firm surface, e. g. a workbench.

Hold the machine firmly, press the spindle lock button and loosen the keyless chuck by turning the Allen key in rotation direction.

Loosen a tight keyless chuck by giving the long end of the Allen key 25 a light blow.

Remove the Allen key from the keyless chuck and completely unscrew the keyless chuck.

 

[Rorschach]

I removed the chuck from a makita drill, I had to use an angle grinder in the end as nothing would budge it, including an impact driver.

 

[moosepig]

I have this drill and have changed the chuck a couple of times, the instructions posted by NazNomad work fine.

 

[GLFaria]

Replacing the Drill Chuck (PSB 650 RE/ PSB 6500 RE/PSB 650 RA)

Removing the Drill Chuck (see figure L)

Clamp the short end of an Allen key 25 into the keyless chuck.

Place the machine on a firm surface, e. g. a workbench.

Hold the machine firmly, press the spindle lock button and loosen the keyless chuck by turning the Allen key in rotation direction.

Loosen a tight keyless chuck by giving the long end of the Allen key 25 a light blow.

Remove the Allen key from the keyless chuck and completely unscrew the keyless chuck.

I believe I mentioned I made everything by the book - which, BTW, is exactly how you decribe. Plus a 1ft. metal tube extension. The end result is shown in the picture.

I thought chuck screws had a left hand thread and the chucks where right handed so it stays on in both forwards and reverse.

Pete

Yes, that was so with the keyed chuck in my previous Bosch. Not in this one, there is just the thread in the chuck, which mates with a male thread in the spindle. They state the chuck should be tightened to a definite torque...

I removed the chuck from a makita drill, I had to use an angle grinder in the end as nothing would budge it, including an impact driver.

How did you do it? Cut through the chuck???

G.

 

[NazNomad]

I think, rather than applying a lot of torque and bending the allen key, shocking it would work better?

 

[Rorschach]

I removed the chuck from a makita drill, I had to use an angle grinder in the end as nothing would budge it, including an impact driver.

How did you do it? Cut through the chuck???

G.

Basically yes. I used a hacksaw to cut through the soft parts and plastic covers then once I was down to hardened core part I used the angle grinder very carefully until I was down to the threads but not touching. I was then able to snap the rest and pull it off. By taking care I was able to do it with no damage to the drill body.

 

[blackrodd]

I think, rather than applying a lot of torque and bending the allen key, shocking it would work better?

Yeah, get the family together and shout and swear at it! :shock: :shock:
I'd be shocked if that happens to me.
Rodders

 

[GLFaria]

I think, rather than applying a lot of torque and bending the allen key, shocking it would work better?

Meaning? (sorry, my understanding of English isn't up to that

I removed the chuck from a makita drill, I had to use an angle grinder in the end as nothing would budge it, including an impact driver.

How did you do it? Cut through the chuck???

Basically yes. I used a hacksaw to cut through the soft parts and plastic covers then once I was down to hardened core part I used the angle grinder very carefully until I was down to the threads but not touching. I was then able to snap the rest and pull it off. By taking care I was able to do it with no damage to the drill body.

)

Gosh! I'm not near to go to all that trouble! You must have been desperate.

G.

 

[CHJ]

You need to give the item (key) held in the Chuck a sharp and forceful tap with a hammer rather than steady pressure.

 

[GLFaria]

You need to give the item (key) held in the Chuck a sharp and forceful tap with a hammer rather than steady pressure.

I've done that too. Main problem is keeping the drill steady enough. As it has no flat surfaces to speak of where to hold it, it moves, or even jumps off the vice, when the key is given any really strong whack. This, compounded with the elasticity of the drill body, makes that a sharp tap loses much of its effectiveness.

I think I must work out a more effective way to grab the drill body other than in a vice (I have tried both a mechanic's vice and a Workmate "jaws")

Thanks everybody

G.

 

[RogerP]

A year or so ago I had the same problem with a Makita drill. I did everything that has been suggested in this thread all to no avail. Two friends tried, they couldn't budge it either. I ended up dumping the thing in the recycle bin, returning the replacement chuck I'd bought, and buying a new drill.

 

[sunnybob]

Have to wonder why all this effort on a drill you hate anyway.
New drills have never been cheaper, even good quality ones.

 

[NazNomad]

As sunnybob has implied, a new chuck won't improve ''bad electronic speed control'' and ''totally unreliable at slow speed''.

It'll be like putting new windscreen wipers on a broken windscreen.

 

[GLFaria]

As sunnybob has implied, a new chuck won't improve ''bad electronic speed control'' and ''totally unreliable at slow speed''.

I never said curing that was my goal, did I?

G.