That's a good point. I'm going to ensure the face is flat (again), check the mortise holes are square (now I know how to) and see if I can get it better then move on. I will fit the screw, do the dry fit as you say and see what it's like.It depends on how much and which way it's out of square. It could work in your favour - much like we fit vice chops to toe in to prevent racking - but it could also stop you pulling the vice chop hard against the bench at the screw end. Perhaps you could drill the hole for the screw and see how it looks once dry fitted?
Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a go with the hide glue.If I’m worried about a joint locking up halfway through gluing up, due to expansion with the water in PVA, I tend to reach for liquid hide glue or West epoxy.
The hide glue is lovely and runny once it’s warmed up in a pot of hot water. Or you can vary the viscosity of epoxy by altering the amount of filler (normally filleting blend for jointing) to suit your application. Both have good open time for complicated glue ups.
It’s looking good so far BTW!
I managed to get it closer by cleaning up one of the shoulders. Although I think I said I was 100% sure they had no high spots, I found one straight away this morning.1. Where the cheeks of the tenon are too tight they will be bruised and this shows as a slightly shiny surface.
2. If this joint will be under a lot of torque, it may be worth wedging the tenons - a standard construction.
That's the one!drawbore tennon
I haven't tried it the other way - That'll be interesting to try! I'm pretty happy with it now and it runs nice and smooth while dry fitted. I didn't think about that fix if it goes wrong. These are the tips I'm having to learn as I go. cheers.When you have a tight fitting mortice and tenon joint, as you fit it... it will compress the fibers, and it will look kind of polished where it is too tight. Look for those polished spots, and determine why. I could be the mortice, or the tenon, or alignment, or out of parallel, or any combination of these. You need to determine why the wood fibers are being compressed and correct that. Since the wood is pine... the joint will be more forgiving because the wood is basically soft... and will swell when glued using pva glue. If all else fails and it ends up too loose, you can cut a saw kerf (hand saw) into the tenon and drive a glued wedge into it as you would when replacing an axe handle.
Another thought... have you tried flipping one of the parts? You may have corrected it and are merely putting it together upside down. a good tip is to always have reference marks that tell you which way it goes together. A simple but good tip.
I've bought that Crubber (I think it was called that) by benchcrafted. I'll see how that gets on when it comes. I was eyeing up some of the Missus' handbags but was warned off them!I use cork...on a roll for my vices, glued with contact cement or double sided tape. Cheap, lasts, does not mar, and easily replaced.
Thanks. I watched that trick on YouTube a while back (think it was Paul Sellers maybe) and I went ahead and tested my adjustable square (A cheapo B&Q effort) and it was slightly off. I then tried my old small set square and that was good, although it only had to be square over 6 inches, then onto my old large set square and that was way out. So, before starting this project I bit the bullet and bought a Starrett combination square. I did the same test with that one and it was perfect. I'm just glad I watched that video before marking everything out!Just to play devil's advocate (and I'm not trying to teach anyone to suck eggs) - have you checked your square is err.......square? - A quick and easy check is draw two lines very close to each other (but not touching) - one with the body of the square to the left and the other with the body of the sqaure to the right. Draw the lines the full length of the blade. Do this on a factory edge of a bit of ply or other material. Key here is to have a very flat edge otherwise the test is pointless. Once drawn, if the two lines are parallel then you can have some faith in your square - until you adjust it that is........then you're back in unknown territory.... just rinse and repeat the above until you are confident that your square will set square along the whole length when you adjust it.
There's always a but! So you're saying my beautiful face vice is doomed from the start! I did consider using a hardwood for the vice and first plank on the top of the workbench. If it starts to move around I'll swap it out with something nicer. I don't think I could make it thinner with it needing strength with it being the jaw of the vice. Thanks for the info. I'll have to do some research on reading wood and how it is milled etc. I wouldn't have the first clue how to tell what part of the tree it came from. I usually have to plane a board and get tearout before I know what way the grain is going.Peter S. will wince, but my rule of thumb with M+T is entirely dependent on whether you can see the end of the tenon or not. If "not" then glue fixes most things! Your joint looks good, but...
...The first picture shows how close that pine board is to the heart of the tree. It will almost certainly continue to "move around" (cupping, splitting and other nasty things) because of that, and isn't suitable to use for fine work. You might get on better by just using less than half of the width of it (which gives you almost quartersawn), but moisture content, etc. also play a part. Pine isn't nice to practice joinery with - it's cheap, but unforgiving unless it has been well dried, has good grain, and your tools are kept extremely sharp.
I'd guess that, if you try again with some nicer wood, the problem will go away.