Help needed to wire NVR Switch

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fluffflinger

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OK so when it comes to things electrical my brain is mush. Always has been and always will be so please poor buckets of scorn on me, I will not complain.

Problem, sorry "issue" to be resolved.;

Just brought a Fobco Star and a Brook Crompton single phase motor to replace the 3 phase that came with the drill. Happy I can conquer the mechanical bit of changing the motor over (I shall find out in 30mins as I'm off to the workshop to change it today). I also needed to change the old switch (as I assume the old one was a 3phase switch?).

So I have purchased a shiny new NVR switch model KVR17. No I didn't expect a fourteen page guide as to how to wire it up but all I got was the switch in a box and printed info on the side telling me which two terminals are in and which two are out and that was it. Details of switch can be found here;

http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/KJD17.pdf

Please take pity on me and help as I do not wish to ruin motor, switch or me!

I should add the wiring on the new motor isn't exactly clear so I might need help with that too.

Thanks in advance of technical help.
 
13 - live supply
23 - neutral supply
14 - live feed to motor
24 - neutral feed to motor

If A1 isn't already connected to 24 internally then you need to add a link for that too.
 
Thanks Paul, I am suitable humble and very, very grateful.

I assume when you refer to A1 that is the small unpaired connector visible on the left of the picture or in the centre of the switch when viewed from the back, this I do not have so I am assuming I can disregard this instruction?

The mechanical side of swapping the motors is now complete and hopefully in an hour or two so will the electrical bit, just need to pop out and pick up some spade end connectors and a replacement belt.
 
Hi

This looks a on off switch and I am not sure it is the one you want.

I would wait for Bob (9fingers) the resident expert on here to have a look.

That switch looks like it does not have any overloads on it.

Tom
 
Older machines with 3 phase motors often had a single phase, ie, 240 volt coil and thus would be useable with the new motor. The info should be on the coil, if there is a 240 volt coil there should be 4 leads, assuming they have not been removed, attached to the starter, plus any earth conductor.

Roy.
 
Tom - Roy

I had assumed that the existing switch was just that an on off switch and therefore I just choose the NVR to replace it.

The switch wired as per Paul's instructions seems to be working absolutely fine. Assuming that the machine is switching on and off correctly I assume I need have no concerns?
 
Make sure the motor is spinning in the direction you need - I fitted a new motor to my bandsaw, couldn't figure out why it didn't cut very well until I spotted the blade was going backwards :oops:

If it is going the wrong way they're usually easy to reverse, just swap a couple of connections.
 
Assuming that the machine is switching on and off correctly I assume I need have no concerns?

Provided that the switch is capable of handling the load long term I'd say you were home and dry.

Roy.
 
tomatwark":ap97qxbc said:
Hi

This looks a on off switch and I am not sure it is the one you want.

I would wait for Bob (9fingers) the resident expert on here to have a look.

That switch looks like it does not have any overloads on it.

Tom

Sorry, I took my eye off the forum for an afternoon - I was wrapping presents !

Tom, this switch is also an NVR of the mechanically actuated type. Suitable for up to about 1HP. Whilst it provides the NVR function adequately, it does not have the overload, thermal trip that is included with the bigger type of NVR/ DOL motor starters.


To the OP, yes you have it wired correctly. As with all NVRs, the best test is to start the machine, then switch off at the wall and back on again. If correct, the motor should not start up by itself.

Bob
 
Thanks for all the very prompt interest. Yes she is spinning the right way and Bob have tested by switching of at wall whilst running and the motor doesn't start until the switch is re-activated.

The replacement motor is obviously single phase and I think the switch is well inside it's stated tolerances.

Time will tell if it's the perfect solution but for now I'm more bowled over by the drill more than the switch.

Huge bang for my buck I feel and far better than modern drills that sell for three or four times the price.

Thanks again, I'm off to drill some holes. . . . . . . . . . .now where are my trusty Forstner Bits. . . . . . . . .
 

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