Hi Dermot
Fear not - you'd be surprised how common these sorts of problems are when people start scrolling
.
Before you check anything else, make sure the blade is fitted into the saw with the teeth facing
downwards. I know, I know... but you'd be surprised how many newbies slip up here.
Assuming your blade is properly fitted, check the blade tension. There should be no more than about a couple of mm lateral movement if it's correctly set up; if you 'ping' the blade with a finger you should get a note like a high C. Not that I could tell you what a high C sounds like
. Next, make sure your table is square to the blade. You should be able to do this accurately enough by eye, aligning the blade with an engineers square resting on the table. A bit of inaccuracy won't be a problem but it's harder to feed the wood into the blade if the table is at an angle.
Finally, make sure you are applying forward pressure to your wood as you cut it. This is especially important when making a turn otherwise the blade and wood will bind and your workpiece will lift. You'll soon get the feel for making very tight turns but it takes a bit of practice at first.
You should now be cutting much more successfully than before. Most beginners tend to work with fairly thin materials such as 6mm plywood which don't have much grain. You might find that easier to control than 20mm wood.
You mentioned the Y shaped hold-down arm at the front of the saw. Many scroll saws come with these fitted as standard but they usually just get in the way. Feel free to remove it if possible.
Blades are a bit of a thorny problem because different scrollers have different preferences. I'd suggest you try out a selection of different brands and discover which suit you. It's always handy to have a range in the workshop because different blades seem to perform better for different tasks. It's not really possible to be much more specific than this; for instance, I like to use #9 Pebeo blades for inlay (!) whereas another scroller I know hates using anything larger than a #3 FD Polar blade. As a general rule, reverse tooth blades tend to be good when cutting plywood and skip tooth blades work well with dense materials. However, reverse tooth blades do have a slight tendency to lift the workpiece as it's being cut, so it would probably be better if you avoided these blades for the time being.
Gill