Help fitting a toilet

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Joe Shmoe

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Hi folks.

I'm in the middle of renovating my parents bathroom. I'd like to move the new toilet 4 inches to the side, from its existing point. It doesn't sound sound like a big amount but it's only a small bathroom and would make a world of difference inside. I suppose I could use a flexible connector on the inside, but they don't look very nice. While I have basic plumbing experience and can sweat pipes and fit toilets and taps etc, I've never touched a soil stack.

Can anyone advise if I will have any issues in trying to remove the existing curved piping that enters the bathroom, and replacing it with a new equivalent? Are soil pipes still that same size as ones from, I'm guessing, 40 years ago?

The other issue I see if that while I can cut the curved peice out and connect up a new one using a connecting peice, how can I slot it into the existing soil stack and the hole in the wall at the same time?

Am I missing something here?

Cheers for any guidance.
 

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Those look like conventional push fit 110mm soil pipes which are still current today.
Small offsets such as you want are normally achieved using internal multiquick adaptors
A proper plumbers merchant (not diy shed) should have what you need.
 
4" is a bit of a stretch for a multi connector.

Those are standard fittings and you'll have to chisel out the wall around the exit.
Once free it will rotate in the upright fittings to allow removal and refitting then rotate back into position.

You can help it by spraying all the joints with a silicone lube first.

You'll end up doing more brickwork than plumbing but it'll be worth it in the long run.
 
For all our WCs (3) over the years I have replaced them with back to wall pan with the cisterns behind a panel. This has the advantage of making it easier to keep clean and would hide any flexible pan connector.

Incidentally rather than use B&Q type expensive toilet cabinets I have used worktop - the laminate surface is easy to clean fitted to a softwood frame and from about £30 for a 2m length.

Much easier and less problematic than messing with soil pipes and brickwork.
 
Chisel or cut a 5" hole beside the pipe outlet plus a couple of inches for "wriggle room".
Good practice would be to buy another bend, (you won't be getting leaks later),
And another piece of straight 4" longer than the one just remove, and fit it back together and connect new multiquick.
Don't forget to bevel the pipe ends using sand paper, file, or (gentle) angle grinder, and fairy liquid as a lubricant, to both the bevelled pipe and the sealing rings in the fitting.
If you have the proper stuff, so much the better.
After the test, fill and cement around the fitting.
Regards Rodders
 

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