hello with a kity 419 question

[mike.wilkinson]

new here today thought i would say hello, and guess what, ask a question at the same time.
anybody use the rutlands dakota tenoning jig on a kity 419 if so is it any good, ie will it fit the mitre slide or do you have to slide it against the fence(don't fancy that idea)
many thanks mike

 

[mrbingley]

I'm pretty certain that the Dakota tenoning jig won't fit the 419, it uses the 3/4 ~3/8 standard slot.
I believe that you can buy a tenoning jig that's made for the Kity 419.

hth
Chris.

 

[DaveL]

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the forum.

I can't answer your question, I have delta tenoning jig which is similar to the dakota but my saw is a Wadkin, nothing like a Kitty. However the Kitty is a good saw and there are a number of happy owners on the forum, hopefully one has the jig as well.

 

[DaveL]

Ah, seeing the comment from Chris, if the slot size is wrong it may be possible to get a new bar made for the jig. On my delta the bar is just bolted on the bottom, no big job to change it. The thing you need to find out is if the spacing of the mitre slot gives clearance for the body of the jig on the blade, even this can be overcome by drilling new holes in the jig, its a bit harder than just getting a new bar.

I bought my delta second hand and it has been drilled to give a second mounting position for the bar.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Mike

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry I can't help with your question.

Cheers
Neil

 

[jasonB]

I have a Kity 2000combi which uses a lot of the same parts. The Kity slot is indeed too narrow and possibly too shallow as well. As Dave says you could possible make a new bar to fit.

The Kity "tennoning" jig mentioned above is actually a comb/box joint cutter not the type of jig we are talking about here.

Jason

 

[mike.wilkinson]

thanks for the replys folks
at the moment i use a 25-30 year old b&d dn800 radial arm saw with the blade removed and a router bracket fitted to cut my tenons, perhaps i should stick with that, its easy and accurate but i thought i could gain some space if i could put that away and use a jig.
mike

 

[9fingers]

Here are pictures of my home made tenoning jig made to fit my Kity CK26 which I think as a saw similar to the 417

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/thenew ... rowse/a314

Some supportng text here http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thenewyan ... ssages/260

regards

Bob

 

[mrbingley]

9fingers
Unfortunately I'm not a member of Yahoo Groups & don't particulary want to join, so can't see your pics.

Chris.

 

[9fingers]

Sorry about that Chris but I can't insert pictures into messages so we have an impasse.

Joining yahoo does not hurt or cost anything.


Bob

 

[9fingers]

I think I might have worked out how to post pictures now

Here is the text from Yahoo page:-

I will shortly be posting some photos of my jig. Hopefully the
pictures will be self explanatory. The stock clamp was made from a
cheap imported G clamp but with a newly cut thread (perpendicular to
the fixed jaw this time!) and a screwcut steel threaded section with
alarge elephants foot made to suit. The slide mechanism uses a pair of
V-grooves riding on a round steel bar with a bolt threaded through to
lock the slide on both sides with the black/orange levers. Looking at
the underside view, the adjustment screw can be seen and also note the
four Tufnol pads that bear on the table when in use. These allow an
easy sliding action and prevent problems due to build up of sawdust
under the jig which could give cutting errors. The pads are glued into
holes in the carriage and then once the adhesive has hardened are
given a light machining over the surface to ensure the jig runs with
the mounting surface perpendicular to the table. The pads stand about
1/32"proud of the carriage surface.
It is of course essential that the table saw blade is set parallel to
the table slot and also perpendicular to the table surface. I anyone
wants more info I will try and help either through this group or
subsequently direct via my mailbox if we run the risk of boring other
members.

Regards

Bob

 

[brianhabby]

Hi Mike,

I had a similar problem with this jig, I never gave a thought about the size of the slot until I got the jig.

I got round the problem by using a piece of steel bar that I drilled with holes to match the original bar and then just swapped them over. I did have to carefully file the new bar to fit the mitre slot exactly but it works.

BTW I am keeping the original bar for when I eventually change my saw for a big 'un

Hope this helps

regards

Brian

 

[mel]

hi mike
greetings from sth killingholme . and welcome aboard
sorry cant answer your question , theres loads of info on here , so im sure youll get your answer sooner or later
mel

 

[woodbloke]

Whilst not helping with your question and on a slightly different tack but still within the K419 remit, it is definitly worth improving the extraction on this otherwise excellent saw - have a look at the post from Bean re 'Making Kity breath more easily' - I have done this on my saw and its a big improvement - Rob

 

[Dewy]

I had always presumed the Kity 419 had a standard mitr slot.
A Kity 419 plus the Dakota tennoning jig were next on my shopping list.
Just as well I didnt buy the Dakota jig when it was on the weekly offer at Rutlands
It now looks as if I will have to change my ideas about them.
The small table saw I want to replace only has a 5/8" x 1/4" mitre slot
Does anyone know what the width and depth of the mitre slot is on the Kity?

 

[9fingers]

My Kity is a 617.
The mitre slot is a top hat section.
Overall height is 5mm
Base width 18mm x 2mm high
Top section is 15mm wide x 3mm high

The section is symmetrical from side to side



Bob

 

[Dewy]

So it's a T slot?
The total depth of 5mm is much too little.
If it was deeper is might be worth milling the T out and widening it to 19.05 mm (3/4")

 

[9fingers]

So it's a T slot?
The total depth of 5mm is much too little.
If it was deeper is might be worth milling the T out and widening it to 19.05 mm (3/4")

Yes it is a TEE slot. On my tenoning jig, (photos earlier in the thread) I simply use a steel guide (brass would do) as the table is hard anodized aluminium.
It is 15mm wide and works well.
I disagree that 5mm is too shallow - it has never caused me a problem.

Bob

 

[Permutation_Jim]

Folks,

I'd agree with many on the board, the Kity 419 is probably the best bang for the buck, particularly suited for those of us without a lot of space.

If you've got access to a small metalshop (lots of them left from the auto trade in places like Redditch), take your existing mitre gauge in and ask for another bar. If you've already bought your tenoning jig, take it as well and ask them to drill holes in the bar to match.

Alternately, just buy another Kity mitre gauge, and re-use its bar. They go for £20 to £50 on eBay. A number of Kity tools of the same size (the bandsaw and spindle moulder, for instance) use the same slot size, although I think some of the larger tools (like the 10" table saw) use yet another odd-ball size.

Other than that, anyone know of a good way for me to get a sliding table for mine (without spending £200)? I'm toying with the idea of selling my kit (a Kity 419 with the base and side tables) and getting one of the Fox clones from Rutlands... but I think I might like my little Kity too much for that.

Thanks, Jim

 

[seaco]

So it's a T slot?
The total depth of 5mm is much too little.
If it was deeper is might be worth milling the T out and widening it to 19.05 mm (3/4")

You don't need to use the 'T' when using the jig, on my Unisaw I removed the small disc that fed into the 'T' due to it being a pain in the ar** to thread into the table every time, much easier to just drop in in...

Just replace the guide bar with the right height and width, sorted...

Lee