Heating up a cellar

[dm65]

With my new plumbing skills (ahem) I want to use these to warm up and dry my cellar so I can store my timber loveliness down there

I already have clear access to the pipes going to the living room radiator so adding a couple in the cellar should be straightforward - I would be using plastic piping, lagged and clipped to the ceiling (unlike the existing pipework !)

I have already cleared it out and have a dehumidifier running 24x7 which I may have to keep using - it also pumps air out of the back which should help stir the air

Anyone got any experience or comments about doing this

The cellar is underground but has several vents at ceiling (cellar) height and will have no cavity I expect

 

[blackrodd]

My short answer is that if the cellar is as original, with your'e de-humidifier you will be pulling the damp as fast as you can pump, a bit like leaving a large window open.
The very least remedial work, would be the floor area.
HTH Regards Rodders

 

[Silas Gull]

Why not install an air-source heat pump or inverter? This will provide air conditioning - hot & cold - and dehumidifier all in one package. Cheap to run, too.

 

[dm65]

Rodders - I don't understand the comment about doing the floor ?

Silas - that sounds complicated/expensive though would address one of the issues with adding to the c/h - it could run happily in summer as well

Keep em coming chaps, this is why I posted (and someone may be contemplating doing the same)

 

[dm65]

I'll answer my own comment to Silas - expensive and nowhere to put the unit as I am straight out onto the pavement

 

[blackrodd]

The air will be coldest and dampest from low down, so the floor will be the best and most beneficial start to any remedial work, should you choose to do so.
Then if you chose to work on the walls, the floor will be an excellent starting point.
Rodders

 

[CHJ]

I would suggest that warming the air in the 'damp' cellar will only increase the airs potential to hold more moisture, de-humidifier will remove this at a greater rate at the expense of increased energy use and as been said may just increase the rate of moisture wicking in from external source.

Think you will need to provide moisture barrier (possibly water extraction) and then insulation to get effective dry air heating.

 

[dm65]

Cheers Rodders, with you now

And with CHJ's comment, plus a little googling, it seems that adding radiators might not be as good an idea as I thought

Ok, so not as straightforward as I thought, I'm looking for quick, cheap and (obviously) effective - would electric base board type heaters be a better idea ?

I could also frame and board the walls but that doesn't fit the quick and cheap criteria

As I said, the cellar is just damp, water doesn't flow or trickle - in some parts, you can feel the damp on the brickwork, other parts are dry to the touch

 

[blackrodd]

To make the cellar usable, You have to cure the damp, any heat will just draw the damp, much the same as a de-humidifier will.
I expect the walls and floor are brick, unless you have head room to spare, the floor would probably need to be dug up, dpc polythene laid, you have to go down, put the right materials back, to end up at a similar height.
I can give you some suggestions if you wish.

Regards Rodders

P.S.Just re-read you're last post (properly)Can I suggest, cost the building options just to see how much you are up against.
One thing is you will have to constantly heat the cellar after any work as cold air lies damp at it's lowest, and you would be back to square 1.
So in the wet cold winter it would be good to zone the cellar rads and they would probably be on a lot! RODDERS

 

[dm65]

I think you're right on all counts Rodders, thanks again and appreciate the comments

The floor, unfortunately, is concrete with a strange volcano effect going on in the middle - picture of one edge below

There is a large circular patch of different concrete in the middle but this is raised by at least 2 inches and what was possibly an older floor slopes up to meet it

That's a lot of graft in prospect there for storing wood - shame, I was hoping to add heat to the rooms above as well just by heating the cellar but might just get another dehumidifier as this does help a great deal

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

The patch in the middle looks from the pic like its had a hole concreted over. Is it possible that spot was once a well?

 

[dm65]

The thought has crossed my mind Bob as it's almost circular but I'm scared of what I'll uncover if I do a test hole - the ceiling is low on this patch and I would love to dig down but for the graft and cost involved

 

[Silas Gull]

You can run the flow and return pipes on an inverter for up to 7 metres, I think. I had one supplied and installed for £900 4 years ago from Mitsubishi. Brilliant bit of kit.
If there was a way to locate the external unit at the rear of your property it might be a goer.

 

[dericlen]

I think to tank and prepare your cellar with effective ventilation, even without heating, would carry too much cost even considering the high cost of your timber stock. I once had a cellar, completely damp proof, it maintained a temperature of 50 degrees winter and summer, it was a great space year round.

 

[Jacob]

I'd go for a proper job - tank the walls and floor. You won't need heating or dehumidifying after that, as long as there is good ventilation.

 

[Benchwayze]

Bite the bullet. Go for tanking.

 

[dm65]

Thanks for all the comments, but there really is no budget - radiators will be free as they are being replaced so I was just going to reuse them for the cost of a bit of pipework

The dehumidifier is doing a pretty good job even though its a little cheap thing - filled up one night when I was home late so the shutoff (now tested ) cut in and I could feel the difference on the wood I currently have stashed down there

A friend has offered me another so this might be the absolute cheapest and easiest fix possible =D>