Hand Planing Technique

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Tetsuaiga

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Just a quick question.

When hand planing do you think it's a bad idea to drag the plane back towards along the surface instead of lifting it each time?
 
I always heard it said that you should lift the plane on the backstroke, otherwise the iron blunts faster.

I got used to it, and always lift the plane on the backstroke, but then I only do small work and use no heavier a plane than a smoother (well, it is true my smoother weights the same as a Stanley #5 jack...). And I seldom work with the plane for longer than a couple hours at a time at most.

Maybe people who do heavier work have a different opinion...
 
Tetsuaiga":16vrg0od said:
Just a quick question.

When hand planing do you think it's a bad idea to drag the plane back towards along the surface instead of lifting it each time?

I remember a detailed discussion on this on OLDTOOLS, but I don't remember the conclusions; I'll try to find it.

Edit; found it

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... t_thread=1

BugBear
 
Dragging the plane backwards adds to the formation of the wear bevel on the clearance side of the edge. But I don't know if anyone ever measured if it is a relevant amount.

Sometimes, dragging the plane back causes streaks of burnished wood (higher gloss). Especially when you drag it back partially lifted on the toe or the side of the plane. If that is a problem depends on your finishing schedule. When you sand the wood anyway before finishing, it is a non issue.
 
Corneel":26xxysmu said:
Dragging the plane backwards adds to the formation of the wear bevel on the clearance side of the edge. But I don't know if anyone ever measured if it is a relevant amount.

Sometimes, dragging the plane back causes streaks of burnished wood (higher gloss). Especially when you drag it back partially lifted on the toe or the side of the plane. If that is a problem depends on your finishing schedule. When you sand the wood anyway before finishing, it is a non issue.

I watched father quite often when he was still alive using a hand plane, and he always lifted the plane away from the surface of the wood at the end of the forward stroke. He was a qualified Carpenter & Joiner who completed his apprenticeship under the tutelage of master craftsman in Scotland many years ago. Interestingly he was never allowed to use a metal soled plane during his whole apprenticeship. He was taught that a wooden sole plane will always generate a superior surface to the timber being worked on. After his apprenticeship he then served his time in the army as a Sapper on Christmas Island when Britain were doing there own nuclear testing. Shameful recognition by the British Government later on. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/news ... sland.html

Stewie;
 
swagman":1ev4svw3 said:
..........Interestingly he was never allowed to use a metal soled plane during his whole apprenticeship. He was taught that a wooden sole plane will always generate a superior surface to the timber being worked on.

A very strange concept...

I'd be interested to know what others think of this suggestion. I seriously doubt the validity myself but it must have some origins to actually be taught.

Jimi
 
Back on topic: I think for final finishing and planing down to an exact size and flatness, it best not to drag.

Dragging would mean additional wear on blade and sole, maybe only a tiny bit, not enough to make any difference, I don't know.

Also, dragging means less effort as you don't have to lift the plane.

So for rough work, removing lots of wood, I drag.
 
jimi43":1ssab2sa said:
swagman":1ssab2sa said:
..........Interestingly he was never allowed to use a metal soled plane during his whole apprenticeship. He was taught that a wooden sole plane will always generate a superior surface to the timber being worked on.

A very strange concept...

I'd be interested to know what others think of this suggestion. I seriously doubt the validity myself but it must have some origins to actually be taught.

Jimi

Wood on wood burnishing. Next time you turn some drawer pulls burnish the one on the lathe with one you've already turned. I would imagine the effect from planing is less pronounced but the phenomenon is real. You can also just burnish on the lathe with shavings. There is no doubt in my mind this works.
 
CStanford":2r4ll4hj said:
Wood on wood burnishing. Next time you turn some drawer pulls burnish the one on the lathe with one you've already turned. I would imagine the effect from planing is less pronounced but the phenomenon is real. You can also just burnish on the lathe with shavings.

(may need a new thread)

I made a quarter staff (well, a stick!) from some garden cut holly, and finished it by burnishing (AKA what Americans would call "boning" when applied to a baseball bat), which both hardens and shines the surface.

Follow USA practice, I used a piece of polished steel (glass bottles are also mentioned), and the result was good. Do you think that a wood burnisher (e.g. boxwood) would have given a different and/or better result?

BugBear
 
bugbear":b14i3hkw said:
CStanford":b14i3hkw said:
Wood on wood burnishing. Next time you turn some drawer pulls burnish the one on the lathe with one you've already turned. I would imagine the effect from planing is less pronounced but the phenomenon is real. You can also just burnish on the lathe with shavings.

(may need a new thread)

I made a quarter staff (well, a stick!) from some garden cut holly, and finished it by burnishing (AKA what Americans would call "boning" when applied to a baseball bat), which both hardens and shines the surface.

Follow USA practice, I used a piece of polished steel (glass bottles are also mentioned), and the result was good. Do you think that a wood burnisher (e.g. boxwood) would have given a different and/or better result?

BugBear

It just might... worth a try.
 
It is unnecessary to lift the plane when pulling it back if you use a blade made of PMV-11 ......

..... OK, Charlie .... couldn't resist :D

Regards from Perth

Derek (who lifts the heel, and also burnished with shavings)
 
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