Hammer Shaft Wedges

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AdrianUK

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Good evening.
Sure many have already been here, as I have, however, I wish to re-fix a couple of old hammer heads correctly with wooden wedges and then cross theses with metal wedges.

Previous repair on an old hatchet and a hammer of my own, I’ve just been content replacing the metal wedge, as the tools weren’t anything special and as long as the heads were tight and secure, they met the intended task, so I was content.

I now have a couple of old hammers, a Brades & an Elwell, which I’d like to fix with how there were originally with wooded wedges. What should be considered for wedges, I was thinking of Ash, both seasoned and greenish, maybe beech, what’s the best approach.

I want to do these justice, both belonged to my grandfather, am slowly unpacking several old tool chests/trunks originally that my father had for 40 years which I don’t believe saw the light of day. I’ve had them in my garage for the last 12 years. Am on the second large trunk,4 more large to look through as well as several medium / smaller, couple are locked without keys which is good as I’m just tempted to open them all and see what treasures they may hold. Quite certain majority will be joinery/carpentry tools, as my grandfather was in the trade, have found some really lovely items, and quite a few that have me scratching my head thinking what the heck is that for, so am sure I’ll be posting a few images of stuff if people are interested.

Anyway, opinions on the hammer approach would be much appreciated.
 
Practically any hardwood would do for a wedge (excepting Balsa of course) but Ash or Beech would be pretty traditional choices. Sometimes a little re-fettling of the fit between the head and the handle is needed to get a nice and snug fit on the lower shoulder which is half the battle!
 
Thank you Trevanion, good to know, I was thinking Ash would be a little more forgiving than the beech.

Once watched a video of a chap fixing the heads to handles in production, looked real easy...... however ref’ your point on snug fit, am certain it won’t be as easy as it looked.
 
It's not too difficult once you know how. You pop the hammer head on the shaft and holding the shaft with the head facing downwards towards the floor and you give the bottom of the handle a sharp tap with another hammer, the weight of the head makes it want to stay in place when the handle is struck and the handle is driven further into the eye of the head. You don't want to over-do it but if you keep at it you'll hear a pitch difference and when hammering on the handle makes a fairly dull noise you know it's driven home as good as it needs to be.

It's hard to explain it in writing, very easy to witness and understand first-hand.
 
I suggest you put a fairly deep saw-cut in the end of the shaft (hickory or ash) - on the long axis, before final fit of the head, then there's a start for your wedge (of well dried oak or ash, I'd suggest, wet wood will shrink and make the wedge less tight). When the wedge is hammered in enough, (see others for techniques) cut/shape the top of the shaft, a slight chisel notch will help start the iron/steel wedge (or two for a big hammer) at right angles (or some use about 70deg) - if it will only go so far without damaging the handle, file off the top. You can leave both wedges slightly proud for later adjustment, but risk catching if you miss-hit.

If the shaft is formed from green ash, definitely leave the wedges proud as there could well be shrinkage and a need to hammer them in further.
 
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