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Half housing joint

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Garno

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I am hoping to do a half housing joint on woods of different heights but the same thickness, but I am not really sure how to do it.
I think (that's where my plan fails) that on the shortest height strip of wood I need to cut out from the top to half way down (appx 1/4"), the longer piece I would cut from the bottom so it slots in place. How far do I cut out the bottom? is it the full height of the smaller piece or is it the same amount from each piece, so appx 1/4" from both?
 

marcros

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any chance of a sketch, it is hard to understand what you are trying to do?
 

Jacob

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This was my first exercise when I did a beginners course many years ago. I did dozens of the b**ggers until I go it right.
The one essential is proper marking starting with face and edge marks on both pieces on the front side. Mark for depth of halving on both pieces marked from face sides, is the same - just one setting of depth gauge. Then on one piece it's the bottom of the housing, on the other the top, but cut from the other side.
 

Garno

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Jacob":2hqzilmw said:
This was my first exercise when I did a beginners course many years ago. I did dozens of the b**ggers until I go it right.
The one essential is proper marking starting with face and edge marks on both pieces on the front side. Mark for depth of halving on both pieces marked from face sides, is the same - just one setting of depth gauge. Then on one piece it's the bottom of the housing, on the other the top, but cut from the other side.

Thanks Jacob,
I couldn't get my head head around if the depths of cut were to be the same or not.
It's a lot clearer now, I'm using a marking gauge to make sure the measurements remain the same throughout.
Thanks
 

Garno

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marcros":3ttm0e49 said:
any chance of a sketch, it is hard to understand what you are trying to do?

Thanks Marcros,

Jacob has given good instruction for me to follow, It was the overall depths I was concerned about as I did not know if they were to be the same on all pieces.

thing.png

Sorry for poor sketch done on comp with mouse.
 

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Jacob

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Garno":1mygw0z3 said:
Jacob":1mygw0z3 said:
This was my first exercise when I did a beginners course many years ago. I did dozens of the b**ggers until I go it right.
The one essential is proper marking starting with face and edge marks on both pieces on the front side. Mark for depth of halving on both pieces marked from face sides, is the same - just one setting of depth gauge. Then on one piece it's the bottom of the housing, on the other the top, but cut from the other side.

Thanks Jacob,
I couldn't get my head head around if the depths of cut were to be the same or not.
It's a lot clearer now, I'm using a marking gauge to make sure the measurements remain the same throughout.
Thanks
Depth of cut of one has to be same as thickness of the uncut piece of the other. Difficult to describe in words! It also means the mark doesn't have to be dead central and it will still work out with the pieces ending up flush on the face side. Basic principle of nearly all woodwork in fact, and why it is a good beginners exercise.
 

Garno

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Jacob":b2ht5985 said:
Garno":b2ht5985 said:
Jacob":b2ht5985 said:
This was my first exercise when I did a beginners course many years ago. I did dozens of the b**ggers until I go it right.
The one essential is proper marking starting with face and edge marks on both pieces on the front side. Mark for depth of halving on both pieces marked from face sides, is the same - just one setting of depth gauge. Then on one piece it's the bottom of the housing, on the other the top, but cut from the other side.

Thanks Jacob,
I couldn't get my head head around if the depths of cut were to be the same or not.
It's a lot clearer now, I'm using a marking gauge to make sure the measurements remain the same throughout.
Thanks
Depth of cut of one has to be same as thickness of the uncut piece of the other. Difficult to describe in words! It also means the mark doesn't have to be dead central and it will still work out with the pieces ending up flush on the face side. Basic principle of nearly all woodwork in fact, and why it is a good beginners exercise.
You've explained it well, at least I understand it but that may be because I am the one doing it as we speak :D
Thank you for the help.
 

toolsntat

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But surely you cannot do a half housing joint on woods of different heights but the same thickness and have them fit flush as you ask?
Unless you are after one flush surface?
Is this answer being lost in terminology?
Cheers Andy
 

Jacob

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toolsntat":gkleimwb said:
But surely you cannot do a half housing joint on woods of different heights but the same thickness and have them fit flush as you ask?
Unless you are after one flush surface?
Is this answer being lost in terminology?
Cheers Andy
if you mean different thicknesses then it will work - they'd be flush on the face side from which the marks are all referenced, but different on the back. That's why it's such a basic essential procedure - it means any errors in your planing/thicknessing will all show on the back but the face should be OK (in theory :shock: ).
 

Garno

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toolsntat":nus9egkg said:
But surely you cannot do a half housing joint on woods of different heights but the same thickness and have them fit flush as you ask?
Is this answer being lost in terminology?
Cheers Andy

How I am looking at it is lets say piece (a) is 20mm and Piece (b)is 10mm

I take a chunk out of piece (a) to 5mm from the top at the same thickness (width) as Piece (b)
I then take out a chunk 0f 5mm from Piece (b) but from the bottom. I slot the two together and it should be flush at the bottom (the part that goes on the surface.

As I say it is only how I understand it and I may be well off the mark
 

Jacob

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Garno":3uinp62x said:
...

How I am looking at it is lets say piece (a) is 20mm and Piece (b)is 10mm
.....
1 You mark both with face and edge marks on the side you want to be flush.
2 Mark both from the face to depth of housing required (gotta be less than 10mm obviously, say 6mm)
3 Cut thin one from the back to the mark - leaving a 4 mm deep housing in the back and a 6mm crossover piece
4 Cut the other from the front to the mark, making a 6mm housing in the front.
 

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toolsntat":ai49yd6a said:
Yep, got it, was a bit confusing with width, thickness, height.
Cheers Andy
It took me some time too! It was years later when I realised what it was all about; all the face and edge mark nonsense we'd been taught at school.
Basically you reference all marks to the face or edge, feed pieces through machines with face and/or edge against table and/or fence. Not always possible but that's the basic rule and it's really helpful.
 

Garno

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Jacob":28sgp9va said:
toolsntat":28sgp9va said:
Yep, got it, was a bit confusing with width, thickness, height.
Cheers Andy
It took me some time too! It was years later when I realised what it was all about; all the face and edge mark nonsense we'd been taught at school.
Basically you reference all marks to the face or edge, feed pieces through machines with face and/or edge against table and/or fence. Not always possible but that's the basic rule and it's really helpful.
Definitely a confusing joint that can be thought out too much. I was overthinking the process :D
 

Garno

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Jacob":1cckbg4y said:
Garno":1cckbg4y said:
...

How I am looking at it is lets say piece (a) is 20mm and Piece (b)is 10mm
.....
1 You mark both with face and edge marks on the side you want to be flush.
2 Mark both from the face to depth of housing required (gotta be less than 10mm obviously, say 6mm)
3 Cut thin one from the back to the mark - leaving a 4 mm deep housing in the back and a 6mm crossover piece
4 Cut the other from the front to the mark, making a 6mm housing in the front.
Great answer, I understand it now :D
 
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