Got a no 4, now what?

[morfa]

Ok, I see that there are some folk out there who only seem to use a no 4 and the £18 one I got of ebay is a great tool, which I'm very happy with. However in the new year, I'm hoping to make a table top and this will involve some jointing. Also in the pipeline are a set of shelves and a set of bookcases. I know that the normal set of planes is a no4, no 5 and a no 7. I've got the 4, so just need a no 5 and 7. It seems that around £40 (inc postage) will get you a decent no 5 off ebay and about £80 for a no 7.

That's very close to the price of a brand new QS no62 LA Jack from Workshop Heaven with 3 blades. Would that do the job of a no 5 and 7?

Also to muddy things up more, some folk recommend a no 5 1/2 or no 6 over a no 5. Could I get away with just a no 6? I see that folk say they're more for bodybuilders (!?!?!) and while I'm not that, I'm young (30) and quite fit (lots of running and climbing). I quite enjoy the physical side of using handtools.

Just so we're clear, the LVs and LNs of this world are out. Far too expensive.

So to sum up:

• 
  1 - no 5 (or a 5 1/2?) and no 7, either from ebay or someone like Ray Iles for about £120ish
  2 - QS no62 with the 3 blades for £130ish
  3 - no 6 either from ebay or someone like Ray Iles - dunno what this would cost? £60ish?

 

[Dangermouse]

I'd go for a no 6. I have a no7 and use it very very rarely. With a no6 its long enough to joint, but small enough to use instead of a no5 and then after a while you can, if you are on the slope enough aquire a few ( few ? .......) more :lol: :ho2

 

[Jacob]

Best overall compromise is 5 1/2 - will do almost everything. £30 - 60 on ebay.

 

[Racers]

Hi, Morfa

I use a LN60 1/2 a record 4 1/2, 5 1/2 and a No8.
The No8 is very good for jointing it just needs pushing.

The half size planes have a bit more mass and plow through knots etc with ease.

I have several 4 1/2's all set up for different tasks a rough Stanley one for hogging of lots of wood and taking out to jobs and a nice Record war finish one that is half way between the two.

I do have a N07 but it doesn't get used much.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

Just to make it all easy, here's a slightly different answer!

Like you, my first plane was a no 4, which was great for all sorts of things.
Some time ago now, when I was getting back into woodwork, I went to an evening class at a local school. One of the things I made there was a large bookcase with sides about 6' long and shelves 4'. Planing the edge of them I used the workshop's no 7 - it made such a difference! With a plane that length and weight I could walk along the length of the wood, without any risk of the cut stopping or stalling. Loads more control than the short plane could give. I soon bought a good secondhand one which I like and use a lot.

However, it is heavy and is potentially awkward on smaller work.

I do now have the QS low angle plane and I am very pleased with it. It is very well finished and reliable. By swapping irons you can take easy thick cuts in softwood or a fine smoothing cut on difficult hardwood. Size-wise it's very close to a no 5, but as heavy as a 5 1/2.

So if I were in your position I'd go for option 2 - a good new plane at a very fair price. Noticeably heftier than your no 4 but good enough for jointing or planing long stuff with a little care.

It's all compromise in the end; to a woodworker a choice of plane is as important as choice of brush is to a painter.

 

[undergroundhunter]

Just to add to the pot, I use a 4, 4 1/2, 5 and a pre WW1 No7 all made by Stanley Bailey. The No7 makes jointing large boards a breeze, it's just the right size and weight to like AndyT said walk along side the work as you plane. All my planes were either eBay specials or handed down from my father in law, all they needed was a clean and a tune up. The plane you choose for a job really does depend on what you are doing with it (obviously), for example if you jointing boards for a side table top then I would use a No5 as opposed to the No7 just because anything shorter than say 4/5 foot its awkward to use the No7.

I hope that made sense.

 

[ac445ab]

.... However in the new year, I'm hoping to make a table top and this will involve some jointing....

If you have to do jointing I think you need a jointer plane; squaring and jointing the elements of a table top by a shorter plane could be challenging.
So, I am for the first option.
Ciao
Giuliano

 

[morfa]

Thanks for the advice gents. I'll go for a no 5 1/2 I think and see how I get on. It's the option that suits my limited budget.

 

[Mike Wingate]

I bought my 4 1/2 and no.6 planes for college in the late 60's. Too heavy and wide. Over the years I have supplemented them with a3. 4. 5. 6 and 7. I also have the superb Quansheng 62. If you are jointing get a no. 6. The Quansheng will do a great job.

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I'd go for a 6 with a spare iron...then can keep one cambered and one straight. It's what I use in my travel kit.

 

[bugbear]

Thanks for the advice gents. I'll go for a no 5 1/2 I think and see how I get on. It's the option that suits my limited budget.

If you're looking on eBay you may find the #6 is cheaper, because SO many people have read Patrick Leach's amusing rant against them.

The #6 is so similar to a #5 1/2 that they serve a very similar purpose.

#5 1/2 Jack plane, 15"L, 2 3/8"W , 6 3/4lbs
#6 Fore plane, 18"L, 2 3/8"W, 7 3/4lbs

I own both, and find little to choose between them - this may widen field of search in your favour.

BugBear