Good value large wet dry vac from Lidl

[Graham Orm]

http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?id=349

 

[marcros]

handy things- i have the same model bought a few years back.

 

[Eric The Viking]

That looks good.

@Marcros, is it fairly quiet? I've got an Earlex which sucks really well but screams, and I've a lot of decorating sanding to do in the house very soon. This might be a 'diplomatic' solution, especially as it's got a demand switch.

 

[Stu_2]

I've had one of these for 2 or 3 years now, and I wouldn't say it's noisy. For the money they're excellent, and I'd happily have another one.

 

[marcros]

It doesn't scream. Not sure on actual noise levels but it certainly isn't as noisy as a router etc. I would happily use mine inside for decorating, it is quieter than the vax that we have for normal domestic duties.

 

[Eric The Viking]

It doesn't scream. Not sure on actual noise levels but it certainly isn't as noisy as a router etc. I would happily use mine inside for decorating, it is quieter than the vax that we have for normal domestic duties.

I think you both just sold me on the idea

 

[Stu_2]

Also, I've never had to renew the filter. I got a Record Power filter cover from D&M. Pretty sure it was one of these, but it actually looks like one of these in real life, so to speak. I remember thinking it didn't look right when I first saw the picture, but I live fairly nearby so was able to go in and take a look.

Works a treat. Just needs hitting with an air line to clean it.

Hope that helps.

Cheers
Stu

 

[RossJarvis]

I've got an Earlex which sucks really well but screams, and I've a lot of decorating sanding to do in the house very soon.

I've been using one of those lately, yes it sucks well, but by crikey it sounds worse than a BAC111!! :shock:

 

[Eric The Viking]

I've got an Earlex which sucks really well but screams, and I've a lot of decorating sanding to do in the house very soon.

I've been using one of those lately, yes it sucks well, but by crikey it sounds worse than a BAC111!! :shock:

I've found out why. Bear in mind though that mine is OLD and quite heavily modified now.

They may well have changed the construction since, but here's how I periodically deal with mine:

1. Strip the thing down. The motor and impellor unit can be removed and unplugged from the power switch and cables. If the wires don't have spade connectors, now is the time to cut them and fit spade connectors in-line (male and female INSULATED pair in each of the two wires to the motor). Put the motor and impellor unit into a plastic bag and seal it up. Place in the family freezer for a few hours.
   .
2. While it's freezing, go find:
   • a long, thin, flat-bladed screwdriver (a long electricians' one for doing the screws on switch and socket plates is what I use),
   • a larger flat bladed screwdriver (for #10 woodscrews is about right): this one MUST have a sharply square, well ground profile to the blade, not rounded-over by lots of abuse.
   • If you have one, a bottle brush or test-tube brush that will fit into holes about 3/8" diameter.
   • a hammer.
   .
3. The Impeller has a round, tin-lid shaped, metal cover (with a hole in the middle, through which it sucks). It's only friction-fitted onto the plastic chassis to which the motor also attaches. You normally cannot get this off, but freezing shrinks the plastic enough for you to use the bigger screwdriver as a cold chisel. Once you take it out of the freezer you have to be fairly quick with this: it warms up and the advantage is lost, but water also condenses out of the air immediately. The idea is to open it up without letting it get too wet:
   
   On alternating sides of a diameter, apply the screwdriver to the edge of the 'lid' and tap it/prise it away from the motor (one firm tap, then the other side, etc.) It should come off easily after only a few goes. At this point quickly return everything to the bag, tie it up again and leave it to return to room temperature.
   .
4. The noise mainly comes from the crud built up on the metal impeller blades, particularly on the trailing edges (the outside edges). These are narrow and hard to get at. It's important to get it ALL off ALL the blades, for two reasons - any lumps left will imbalance the thing (which knackers the bearings), and any lumps left will encourage the stuff to build up again quickly. I scrape each one carefully using the small screwdriver, then make sure all the crud is gone with the bottle brush. Try very hard not to scratch the blades with the screwdriver, too.
   
   I haven't, but you might try something drastic like carburettor cleaning spray at the end of the clean to get rid of the last traces of crud. Carb cleaner is really nasty stuff - do this outside, somewhere where killing vegetation won't matter and not on tarmac (it dissolves it), and you must keep the spray off the plastic parts as it will dissolve them! Also keep it well away from the motor and shaft bearings!
   .
5. Reassembly is the reverse of dismantling, but you shouldn't need to freeze the motor again, just tap the lid back on with care.

It should run quieter and deliver more suction than it did. I do mine annually, and more so if I'm using it a lot as DX for the routers, etc. especially with MDF work. A good warning sign is a buildup of fine clingy dust on the filter (I use the cleanable ones, not the paper bags, which are useless in my experience).

Some of the screws are quite deeply recessed. IIRC, and they're not all the same type. You'll need a long reach Pozi #1, but you might get away with a #2. Don't overtighten on reassembly, as it's metal on plastic.

Hope that helps a bit. If you try it, let us know if it makes a difference

E.