Technically speaking I don't know if there's much difference but having used both over the years I much prefer Titebond. It does run better and has better grab properties and the Titebond containers with the self clearing and washable nozzles are so handy.
They're almost exactly the same chemically, but Titebond isn't quite so diluted so it has a slightly better grab which is only really noticeable on heavier stock. I use Titebond because it's available in large sizes from Axminster (and probably others) and it works out a lot cheaper than the Evo-stick equivalent. Get the little glue bottles from Axminster - they're only a couple of quid each (including one with a dispenser for biscuits) and fill 'em up with Titebond. Works a treat!
Avoid them both if you're doing anything serious like heirloom furniture or something. The joints will never come apart if ever the piece needs repair or alteration.
I prefer Titebond too. I like the quicker set time and the bottles are quite nifty too.
I've used Cascamite a bit and seems good - but hassle of mixing it and its limited shelf life doesn't bode well for the weekend woodworker in my opinion. If I absolutely need a waterproof (submersed) bond I would probably use it or some polyurethane glue.
I use PU mainly for "quick and dirty" jobs - I have one which sets in 5 minutes flat - but it doesn't really have the bond strength of UF or RF (neither do most PVAs, by the way) and it can require much cleaqn-up afterwards - so I'm careful where I use it
I use H.B.Fuller Icema r45/12 (catchy name, huh?) - something some of the local shop fitters put me on to. They also told me the trick of wiping a dampish cloth across both sides of the joint to get the reaction going quickly and of masking tape either side of the joint to make the clean-up easier.