A
Anonymous
Guest
which is the better general purpose woodglue,
EVOSTICK pva woodglue' or franklin TITEBOND original :?
EVOSTICK pva woodglue' or franklin TITEBOND original :?
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Technically speaking I don't know if there's much difference but having used both over the years I much prefer Titebond. It does run better and has better grab properties and the Titebond containers with the self clearing and washable nozzles are so handy.
Go for Titebond.
Rgds
Noel
Go for Titebond.
Rgds
Noel
sawdustalley
Established Member
I agree, Titebond.
Steve
Established Member
They're almost exactly the same chemically, but Titebond isn't quite so diluted so it has a slightly better grab which is only really noticeable on heavier stock. I use Titebond because it's available in large sizes from Axminster (and probably others) and it works out a lot cheaper than the Evo-stick equivalent. Get the little glue bottles from Axminster - they're only a couple of quid each (including one with a dispenser for biscuits) and fill 'em up with Titebond. Works a treat!
Avoid them both if you're doing anything serious like heirloom furniture or something. The joints will never come apart if ever the piece needs repair or alteration.
Avoid them both if you're doing anything serious like heirloom furniture or something. The joints will never come apart if ever the piece needs repair or alteration.
A
Anonymous
Guest
cheers all,
I've ordered half a litre of both anyway
I've ordered half a litre of both anyway
sawdustalley
Established Member
Steve i'm not sure if Titebond and Evostick are the same...
Titebond = Alisphatic(sp?) Resin
Evostick = P.V.A
Titebond = Alisphatic(sp?) Resin
Evostick = P.V.A
SDA
Aliphatic resin is another name for polyvinyl acetate - just more marketing hype! The only real difference is that Titebond has some yellow dye added.
Personally I use resorcinol formaldehyde or urea formaldehyde glues (Cascamite, etc) for much work - stronger bond, 100% waterproof and no possibility of creep.
Scrit
Aliphatic resin is another name for polyvinyl acetate - just more marketing hype! The only real difference is that Titebond has some yellow dye added.
Personally I use resorcinol formaldehyde or urea formaldehyde glues (Cascamite, etc) for much work - stronger bond, 100% waterproof and no possibility of creep.
Scrit
gidon
Established Member
Good article here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00010.asp
I prefer Titebond too. I like the quicker set time and the bottles are quite nifty too.
I've used Cascamite a bit and seems good - but hassle of mixing it and its limited shelf life doesn't bode well for the weekend woodworker in my opinion. If I absolutely need a waterproof (submersed) bond I would probably use it or some polyurethane glue.
Cheers
Gidon
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00010.asp
I prefer Titebond too. I like the quicker set time and the bottles are quite nifty too.
I've used Cascamite a bit and seems good - but hassle of mixing it and its limited shelf life doesn't bode well for the weekend woodworker in my opinion. If I absolutely need a waterproof (submersed) bond I would probably use it or some polyurethane glue.
Cheers
Gidon
Hi Gidon
I use PU mainly for "quick and dirty" jobs - I have one which sets in 5 minutes flat - but it doesn't really have the bond strength of UF or RF (neither do most PVAs, by the way) and it can require much cleaqn-up afterwards - so I'm careful where I use it
Scrit
I use PU mainly for "quick and dirty" jobs - I have one which sets in 5 minutes flat - but it doesn't really have the bond strength of UF or RF (neither do most PVAs, by the way) and it can require much cleaqn-up afterwards - so I'm careful where I use it
Scrit
gidon
Established Member
Hi Scrit
What PU do you use then? The clean-up does put me off a bit.
It must go back to childhood - but I get quite excited about glue! Sad, isn't it?
Cheers
Gidon
What PU do you use then? The clean-up does put me off a bit.
It must go back to childhood - but I get quite excited about glue! Sad, isn't it?
Cheers
Gidon
Hi Gidon
I use H.B.Fuller Icema r45/12 (catchy name, huh?) - something some of the local shop fitters put me on to. They also told me the trick of wiping a dampish cloth across both sides of the joint to get the reaction going quickly and of masking tape either side of the joint to make the clean-up easier.
Scrit
I use H.B.Fuller Icema r45/12 (catchy name, huh?) - something some of the local shop fitters put me on to. They also told me the trick of wiping a dampish cloth across both sides of the joint to get the reaction going quickly and of masking tape either side of the joint to make the clean-up easier.
Scrit
