Get bandsaw blade and table at 90°?

[peps1]

Was wondering how to adjust the table on a saw to make it 90° as at them moment the table is a few degrees out making the cutting of bridle joints just a little out.

Seems the table only allows for tilting left to right, not front to back to correct this?

My saw = Charnwood W715 10'' Woodworking Bandsaw

 

[Steve Maskery]

Are your wheels co-planar?
S

 

[peps1]

Pass

Edit to add: the design of the saw make it imposable to lay a straight edge across both wheel and check all 4 point of contact.......but it is tracking nicely, if that helps?

 

[Jelly]

Not quite an answer to the question, but two possible Quick and Dirty fixes to let you get on with the job:

1. Flip your workpieces over and let the slightly canted blade trim the other side to the same depth... there will be a slight crown in the centre, but if it's only slight then you should still be able to get an acceptable joint.
2. Take a sharp chisel (ideally a paring chisel) to the end of the cut and straighten it up manually

In fact thinking about it... both of those combined would work even better than either on its own.

 

[peps1]

Guess its time to buy a chisel!

Guess Im going to need one for paring down the dowels I plan on using in these joint anyway.

any tips on what brands I should be looking at for a set or paring chisel.....as I know nothing about handtools!

 

[mbartlett99]

If you're in a fix and need to crack on you can shim the front two bolts that hold the table down until its square; treating the sympton rather than the cause but it should get you going.

If you only need to trim dowels a flush cut saw might give better results - cost about 15 quid.

 

[mickthetree]

Could you make a false base for the table? Use shims to get it accurate.

Depending on the blade you have and the quality of cut you are getting I'd probably mark a knife line and pare the last bit anyway to get the best fitting joint.

HTH

 

[AndyT]

If the problem is with making the same cut in lots of components which are all the same size, I guess you could experiment with shimming up each piece to make it lean in towards the blade a touch - something like a piece of card under the back end of the work which you slide with it as you move in for the cut.