Garden Gates

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phil p

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Hi,
I'm after some advice as I'm about to start making a double pair of garden side gates closing in the middle, however I want to make a decent job and construct them with a mortice and tennon frame and inlay some 14mm thick cladding.

I also am a novice therefore I'm hoping to increase my skill levels and make a decent job.

They will be similar to the one's Gid Joiner has made on Youtube.

They will be about 1.8 metres high and the gap I have to fill is 50 inches therefore each gate will be 25 inches wide.

Here's my few questions before I start!

I was thinking of routing a rebate in the frame to accept the cladding, however the main issue as far as I can see would be rain ingress over time but I have plenty of wood treatment so I can give it them several coats, also there would be a final finish to add.

Is this a good idea or should I just batten the inside of the frame and nail/screw them on so they are flush with the frame?

Also, as the gap is spot on 50 inches wide, so how much less should I make each gate to allow for the Tee hinges and closing?

Any other helpful advice that I have missed would be appreciated.

Regards
Phil
 
I left about a 1/2 gap either side, mostly because I was using feather edge for cladding so I wanted some expansion room and for the latch to catch properly on the post. I decided against Tee hinges as heavy gates will sag over time and I wanted something adjustable. I opted for these a few years ago for a gate to a large duck run and I re-used them on my gate. The gate had stood for 3 years in an exposed position and had not sagged, the hinges were in great shape so I re-used them for my garden gate.

They can be shimmed with washers if the gate or the post sag over time.
 
The size isn’t that much different to a pair or French doors. I make gates with the same tolerances as doors, typically 1/8” at the sides and 1/8” at the point they meet.

I would allow the cladding to flow over the lower rail by making the bottom rail thinner.

If you want the framed look you need to chamfer the rebate to c9degrees to allow the water to shed. If your using V groove tongue and groove it doesn’t show.
 
deema":2qy7e8vl said:
If you want the framed look you need to chamfer the rebate to c9degrees to allow the water to shed. If your using V groove tongue and groove it doesn’t show.

Similar to the stable door I'm making at the moment. A few pics Phil -


6600768294032282980106307ff68850.jpg

352a9ed4e11e30b30d0b19fd020db5a6.jpg

c18e8cddeb5f0970453af4ea8a50247b.jpg



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