Garage to Workshop Conversion

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
JFC - is that tool called a 'wall-chaser'?

I kind of know what your talking about and that would be a good way of fixing the floor - i'll look into that. Thanks.
 
My way would be to level floor with sand/cement or self leveller then lay a poly. dpc then the high density expanded polystyrene for floors (12mm up to 50mm as required )covered with chip board flooring glued up with 5mm gap at edges batterns are not required this stuff will stand 8inches of wet concrete .
For the roof try to find a firm that sprays foam to insulate it.
The walls expanded polystyrene (ordinary) between batterns covered with board of your choice.
 
Sounds about right , tell the hire shop what its for and you'll get the right tool . For the gap between the roof and walls id use expanding foam and put kingspan insulation between the joists before i boarded the ceiling .
 
Byron the bug has bitten you badly. It started with a cheap compact Triton saw - then a cabinet making course now a garage conversion - you have it bad. Hope it does not get worse. Don't visit a woodworking show in your condition - it could be terminal

Have fun
Barry
 
Guy's, this is some excellent info. OLD - thanks for the alternative floor idea,that might be the easiest way considering how un-level the floor is.

Stupid question here, what is kingspan? (he asks as he goes to google)..
 
Barry - Luckily I have a couple of mates who are helping with the conversion including the materials as i'll be doing some work for them - using the nifty triton table ;-)

The workshop is mostly going to be a hand-tool shop with just a couple of power-tools (bandsaw, tablesaw and router). So budget wise I don't really need to spend too much.

However, I was considering converting a small corner of the garage into a spray-booth :)

And perhaps a display cabinet for my growing collection of planes !! It all happens so quickly!
 
ByronBlack":1t7fg1ww said:
The workshop is mostly going to be a hand-tool shop with just a couple of power-tools (bandsaw, tablesaw and router). So budget wise I don't really need to spend too much.
<Insert hollow laughter here> Oh, Byron, you is in deep, deep denial* there, chum... :lol:

Cheers, Alf

*No, not a river in Egypt
 
Alf seriously - I drew up a tool list of essentials for doing the kind of work of what I want to do, and apart from a couple of cheap additions i'm virtually complete.

Oh ye of little faith!

P.S Anyone know where I can get a stanley 271 router plane (apart from ebay?)
 
alf, he said a display cabinet for his planes :shock: :shock: i suppose it will have litle spot lights and hand carved name plaques with all the history of each plane :lol: :lol: . alf you should be more carefull where you put that grease 8) 8)

frank
 
(spoken to ones-self: Damn, how did he know about the spotlights? -- does he know about the infa-red sensors as well?)
 
Kingspan is a foam insulation that is wrapped in foil , its used in all buildings now as insulation its not the cheapest stuff but its good for sound and heat insulation . Re the infa red , did you know haffle do an infa red that turns a spot light on when activated , how cool would that be when you go to choose a tool :lol:
 
OLD":1bifn1yx said:
My way would be to level floor with sand/cement or self leveller then lay a poly. dpc then the high density expanded polystyrene for floors (12mm up to 50mm as required )covered with chip board flooring glued up with 5mm gap at edges batterns are not required this stuff will stand 8inches of wet concrete .
For the roof try to find a firm that sprays foam to insulate it.
The walls expanded polystyrene (ordinary) between batterns covered with board of your choice.

Breaking in on this thread, is it possible to spray the underside of corrugated asbestos roof sheeting to form an insulation barrier?
 
Thinking back to my pig building days (many asbestos type sheeting roofs), I found that the spray on insulation, whilst working fairly well, did cause some problems, due to no cavity, and also at times was difficult to keep dust free/clean. We found that using T&G insulation boards, with a cavity and a coat of paint gave a better surface to work with.

As to the floor, I laid a wooden floor in a garage that had a fall of 80mm over 6m. All I done was got my levels and then using a table saw, ripped joists at the various depths to meet level. This gave me all joists sitting on the concrete. I also had some thin foam laminate underlay left over from a job, I put that between the joists and concrete, that cut down noise from machine vibrations.
 
As well as Kingspan there is Celotex Tuff-R.
I found some in the skip at work, enough to complete a few miising bits of insulation in my workshop. It is much easier to cut then the polysterene that I used but I have no idea of its cost - expensive I suspect


Andy
 

Latest posts

Back
Top