Garage Conversion to Workshop - Extraction Completed

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Vinny

Established Member
Joined
19 Sep 2008
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Location
Wilts
I've made reference to my garage to Workshop/Utility room build on other threads and have promised a WIP, so here it is.

Bought our first house after leaving the RAF (22 years) last October, one of the main selling points for me was the tandem double garage that was destined to be a workshop as soon as I saw it, like all great plans this changed to a utility room, downstairs throne room and a workshop (albeit smaller than I first thought).

Utility room because the kitchen wasn't big enough for washing machine, tumble drier and swmbo's collection of freezers.

Downstairs throne room because "apparently" I don't smell too sweet in the morning"

Workshop because in my time with the RAF all of my projects have been carried out on a B and D workmate with a variety of hand power tools and its always been something I wanted.

So this is pretty much what I had to play with, the previous occupant had wired it very badly, choc block and bell wire on one end of the scale for the hanging light bulbs and 5 amp flex on the other end for the 2 sockets. :shock:

Note new axi SCMS on table - first new toy


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This window would have to go because it would span the parti wall for the throne room.

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So submission of a form and 170 sheets to Building Control and I was off to Travis Perkins for a roof rack full of CLS and a few rolls of DPM. Its probably worth mentioning here that the submission and approval of the building notice was really easy, fag packet sketch of what I was doing passed for a plan and regular visits from a building control bloke kept me on the straight and narrow. the "bloke" was really helpful, pointed me in the right direction on several bits and answered all my questions without even a hint of "muppet" in his replies :wink: . However he did spec celotex for all the wall, floor and roof insulation and its not cheap, in fact it accounted for over half the utility room build cost.

This was the first time I'd tackled anything constructional on this scale so it was a learning process in places, ie, i won't put noggins on the brick wall studs again as it's a pipper to route cables when wiring the sockets.

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Window removed.

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Getting ready for the new UPVC window, my first ever attempt at any kind of brick/block work and I was pretty chuffed with the result.

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Life lesson learn't at this stage, do not let your 13 old daughter borrow your camera without first backing up the pictures, one click of the delete key and all my photo's hit the ether, never to return.
So the rest of the utility build WIP was lost. It all went OK, putting the soil pipe in for the toilet was a PITA due to a 9 inch concrete oversite that pretty much ran the entire length of the pipe, blisters, calouses and a rather blunt coal chisel later and it was in. Electrics were done by me and signed off by a local firm. Plumbing again done by my own fair hand. Building control was happy and signed the project off.
This is the finished utility room complete with what has been dubbed "dads purple poo palace" owing to the fact that the only paint I had that wasn't magnolia was some purple funky paint left over from a feature wall in my youngest daughters room.


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Now onto the workshop.

the utility room had effectively cut space to dump stuff by a third and I was now left with this to try and fashion a workshop from. New TS200 TS still in box somewhere amongst the melee

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A fair amount of ruthless chucking away and a miltary style mission to secrete non woody stuff round the house and I was left with this.

TS now assembled, floor installed (heeded advice gleaned from another thread on here, wooden floors are kinder to dropped chisels than concrete ones)

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The mission to hide the non woody stuff round the house had failed, it all eventually ended up back in the workshop. My only concession (at time of writing :? ) was to build a big cupboard in which to keep all the rubbish. I decided on putting it behind the door as it would cause least inconvenience to me, although it transpires that swmbo isn't best chuffed with its location because closing a door to open a cupboard door ranks right up there with having your ears ripped apart by rabid weasels !! ho -hum, never mind eh.

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Next I needed somewhere to put my bench grinder and engineers vice (I sometimes get the urge to thrash things wildly with big hammers until they bend or break) It also served as a prototype for the rest of the bench which is to follow. Its made out of 18mm shuttering ply with a 11 mm ply top. Its worked ok but I think the rest of the benches will be shuttering ply topped off with 18mm mdf to make the whole kit and caboodle a bit more "dense" - important when youre in ball pain hammer mode. It will also serve as a height datum for all the other fittings in the workshop.

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Table saw assembled with dust extraction fitted :oops: The dust extraction will be upgraded to something green and sucky from yandles very soon.

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Before I bought the TS200 I was thinking of getting one of the bigger 10" Axi saws, glad i didn't as this one takes up more room than I thought. Its a good little unit, perfect for what I need. A little bit of fettling and it cuts straight and square. I don't think the blade is of the highest quality but having nothing to compare it to it'll do for the time being, ripping chunks out of OSB, shuttering ply and mdf. When it comes to nearer the time for replacement I'll ask on here for reccomendations.

The TS200 is a bit wee for full 8 x 4 sheets so I knocked this up to fill the void. it needs a couple more slots to fit the CLS to cater for different sheet size and cut width but I'll do those as and when I need them.

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Walls were battened and covered with OSB, this was duly painted with masonry paint (tip from Wizer on another thread I think) Sockets fitted (4 doubles on each wall) and lighting added to - now 5 52w strips with seperate switches for the centre one and the 4 outside (over bech) ones.
Its very bright with all the lights on and the white walls - top tip from here again.

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Thats all for the time being - next 5 days at work :evil: so little progress expected.

Please feel free to comment on anything, good or bad (though I prefer good)

Next steps are to build the units and bench, build in the TS to include an outfeed table, fit some dust extraction, get rid of the Axi router table and build one in next to the TS.

Hope you enjoyed what seems like my life story, will post again when next milestone is reached or breached.

Cheers

Vinny
 
Shultzy":2f8jsrlm said:
Great post Vinny, but what about the roof space. That need filling with insulation to keep the shop cozy.

or boarding out as an attic for wood storage
 
Vinny":3nl2f458 said:
The mission to hide the non woody stuff round the house had failed, it all eventually ended up back in the workshop. My only concession (at time of writing :? ) was to build a big cupboard in which to keep all the rubbish.

tactical error there mate - you should have insisted all the rubbish went in the utility room. when you were fitting it out ;) :D
 
I did think about insulating the ceiling/roof but decided against it for 2 reasons:

1. I can store 2.4m lengths of timber no problem between the rafters

2. Not quite sure how much life there is left in the felt on t'other side of the boards. I'd like to know that there was a leak by noticing a dark stain rather than finding half the roofing felt and shingle dumped over a still drying project on the bench.

as for the cold - easy cure, put a jumper on :wink:
 
Looks like you are really cracking on there Vinny. For a replacement blade you want a Freud LP40M 016 200mm Dia 30mm Bore and 40 teeth. I have just bought one from http://www.wentinfasteners.co.uk (you have to call or email). Cost £18.90 +V.A.T Plus Postage £3.50 +V.A.T
 
Nice job and similar in concept to my wksp. Like the cupboard, Might have to make covers/doors for my shelves as they are still collecting dust despite dust collection.
 
Vinny - lots of good progress on the 'shop...don't forget to PM when you're passing thru' town :wink: - Rob
 
Bit of progress over the past couple of days. Got the plinth down for the cupboards/drawer units and the centre island for the built in TS and Router table. Just got to wait for my "pocket money" before I can order some more ply and some mdf to finish it off.
TS will come off the stand and be built in to the island unit.


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First cupboard / drawer unit, costructed from shuttering ply, pocketholed and glued, it may only be a workbench but thought it'd be the ideal time to practice with pockethole joinery. The LHS aperture is deliberately smaller, RHS is for a drawer unit.

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On the subject of "pocketholing" I bought the APTC jig, seems to work perfectly well, havn't seen or used a Kreg so no way of comparing. The jig came with a selection of screws which are now depleted. Can anyone recommend a good supplier, APTC stock a lot but just wondered if anyone knows of a supplier who does anything other than Kreg (they seem to be top dollar).

Cheers

Vinny
 
Nice build.

On the subject of your pictures they are recoverable provided they have not been overwritten by new pictures. Some cameras don't use the used space until the end so your old pictures could still be there.

It is only the index that is deleted. There is software available to rebuild the index and then you have the photo's back.

Mick
 
Vinny why on earth have you put the TS on a plinth??
 
Mick

tried that, unfortunately the photos were on my "back up" 1 gig card, daughter borrowed the camera for a school project and took enough hi res pictures to fill the whole card. :cry:
 
Wizer, thats only its temporary home. The TS will come off the stand and get built in at the same level as the rest of the bench. going to ditch the rather warped mild steel side table and replace with a thick mdf one which will also (eventually) double as a router table. Had to put the TS somewhere that i could use it to build the rest of the units, also putting it there gave me an idea of its final position - had to allow enough space to feed full sheets through the garage door

vinny
 
ah ok, I would bring it to the front edge of the plinth tho. I can see you tripping and splitting your face in two... :shock:
 
wizer":15xr3lsu said:
ah ok, I would bring it to the front edge of the plinth tho. I can see you tripping and splitting your face in two... :shock:

noted, thankyou
 
managed to get all the "important" jobs cracked over the past week or so - also managed to fit a week in majorca into the schedule, so it was back to the ply and mdf.
All cabs built and a layer of 18mm ply topped with 18mm mdf added, even swmbo thinks it looks good :shock:

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Shelves and doors to follow next week.

One question to throw open to the "floor" - is there anything that i should be using on/treating the mdf with or will it be ok in its raw state (the mdf is standard - not the green stuff).

Cheers

vinny
 
V nice setup, just a note about insulating the roof, if the walls are now insulated you have created a cold spot in the roof so you will have condensation dripping down onto the nice new kit. (I found out the hard way insulated the walls and not he roof, spent ages cleaning all of the kit and then insulate the roof)
 
MDF should be okay on its own, as long as it doesn't get damp or wet... For reassurance, you could treat it with a couple of coats sealer or oil finish. Rustins' do an excellent water-based sealer, specifically for MDF. All the other sealers (cellulose, spirit-based, etc.) would need to be thinned considerably for the first coat at least. It's the same with oil; MDF will soak it up like a sponge! Again, you can thin most oils (Danish and linseed) with turpentine or even white spirit.

One the best ways to prevent unnecessary swelling or damage is to lip all exposed edges with solid wood; biscuit-jointed or simply glued on and mitred at the corners. Alternatively, a weak PVA-solution can be used to some effect.
 
msh

The walls are best described as "covered" rather than insulated, just OSB screwed onto battens.

OPJ

Thanks for that, I found some wax in B and Q which had been reduced so am in the process of applying it, like you say the mdf is drinking it at the mo but another couple of coats should see it right.

Cheers

Vinny
 
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