I would avoid Oak on exterior joinery unless it is a very high-grade Oak or stave core construction. I've seen people make the mistake of putting in solid Oak doors and windows because some silly person told them it was the best they could get and a year down the line the house is being ripped apart by the movement of the doors and windows. Plus it isn't cheap in the first place.
There are basically 4 readily available, reputable and relatively inexpensive "tropical" hardwoods to choose from: Sapele, Idigbo, Utile, and Iroko. All these timbers are used very commonly in exterior joinery and each has its upsides and downsides. It would be best to look into these and see which one would suit you best.
On my own Doors and frames, I use a 95mm x 70mm frame (Jambs and Head) and the Cill is 95mm x Whatever thickness the cill needs to be to match or be above the interior floor, With a 5/8 inch mortice into the head and cill of the frame. The frame rebate size is 15mm x 60mm which allows for a 55mm thickness door and 5mm allowance for a draft seal. The frames are double draft sealed with Aquamac 21 and 124 seals, the 124 seal sits between the door and the seat of the frame, the seal pokes out 15mm from the groove hence why it is a 15mm depth rebate. The 21 seal sits 9mm above the 124 seal in the rebate and mostly just gives the door the high quality "Fwwf" sound when you open and close the door. On external opening doors, I like to run a capillary groove 8mm off the front edge of the rebate which stops water from tracking from the head and working its way around the frame onto the seals. On the cill of an externally opening door, I have a 15mm x 60mm rebate which has a 9-degree bevel running from the seat to the outside edge of the frame. On the seat of the rebate, I use an aquamac 21 seal in the face of the seat instead of a 124 in grooved into the bevel because I believe the groove in the cill would allow water to sit in the groove and rot out the tenons, which I have seen happen.
With the actual door, the door you're after is the classic Pattern 10 door with full glazing. It's pretty much the simplest door you could possibly make aside from a ledged door. On my doors, I use 95mm x 55mm stiles and top rail, 200mm x 55mm bottom rail. On the door, I use a 15mm x 41mm rebate which allows for a 24mm double glazed unit and a 15mm bead and a 2mm step between the face of the door and the bead, which I believe looks nicer than a flush bead. I also use a 5/8 inch mortice in the stiles in line with the seat of the 41mm rebate. I typically put a moulding on the door and frame but you can do them square just to make things easier. You can plant on your strips right onto the door like you have done with the garage doors.
It's worth taking into account what you wish to use to lock the door before you start getting to far into the project as it's easier to make adjustments to allow for it before you actually start making the door rather than after it's made. Personally, I would use a multi-point style locking mechanism like the Tornado or other systems on a 45mm backset. They not only add a bit of extra security but do help to prevent the door from twisting when closed and keep the door tight against the draft seal unlike the single point locks such as the 5 lever locks and so on.
If you have any other questions please ask and if you want any cross sections drawn up of the profiles I use I'd be happy to do so.
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