Fresh Yew wood

[Sheptonphil]

I have been offered a, yet to be felled, yew tree from the local cemetery.

Approx. 35ft tall 3ft across and of course all the branches up to 10 inches, 200 years+ old (some say 300 years old) . It will be felled professionally, and I can have as much wood as I care to collect.

Is Yew straightforward to season using the paint/PVA on ends method, or am I wasting time and effort collecting it to find the logs crack anyways to the point of being useless? How much is too much to collect, I can have all of it if that I can physically move, the rest will be chipped or burnt? Is trunk wood or branch wood the better for turning?

Thanks for advice

Phil

 

[CHJ]

If it's big enough it's good enough.
Personally I find it's one of the easier woods to store and work but that bold statement needs qualifying.

I don't expect Yew wood privately salvaged to be perfect and treat any fine splits cavities imperfections as part of the woods character and glue and/or fill as needed.

Definitely be quick with the end sealing.

If larger diameter than you are likely to use on bowls then consider bandsawing it into 75-80 mm slabs.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi, I've found it pretty straightforward in the past. I'm envious of your opportunity! Cheers, W2S

 

[paulm]

Very desirable, trunk and branch wood, even two or three inch branchwood has lovely coloured heart wood and makes fine turned mushrooms !

Be very, very clear to the tree surgeons, repeatedly, and be there while they are doing it if you can be, how you want the wood cut/sized, their normal default is to ring for firewood which makes it largely useless for anything else and would be a crying shame !

Cheers, Paul

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Nice one. I would think it's older than you think.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Get a slab of beer to bribe the fellers to cut you small slabs (I assume you're more inclined to turning it) then seal the ends. If you can get perhaps three foot slabs, it would give you plenty of scope for the future and still be movable.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I did some exquisite table lamps out of 6 - 7 inch branches by deliberately offsetting them so as to get bark inclusions, some sapwood and some hard. Get the crotches where they branch into three or four for superb grain.

 

[Sheptonphil]

Wow, didn't expect quite so much advice so quickly, many thanks to all of you.

I will take pics when I go up there, and will certainly take Phil's advice of a slab of beer to get a 'little input' into how it's cut. I have a Jeep and a small trailer which I use for house fire logging, so I'll be able to haul a fair amount each trip, which is only 1/2 a mile from home.

Clearing the spare stable out this weekend to convert to a wood store. there's already several solid shelves and racks in there, so it will be ideal. Unfortunately, had the store space reserved for an Ash tree I have also been donated, so will have to share a little room and use the rest of the Ash on the woodburner!

Point taken on the crotch pieces, I made a bowl from a Leylandi crotch at root level and the patternation of grains is stunning.

thanks again for the input.

Phil

 

[CHJ]

Always try to get log lengths a multiple of diameter plus a bit spare for end trimming, (the longer the less end split risk overall) then whether slabbed, split down the core for bowl blanks etc. you won't be left with a less than optimum piece that's only good for pen blanks, the odd lid knob etc.

 

[MusicMan]

The main difference between trunk wood and branch wood is that trunk wood is more likely to be uniform and contain lower stresses. Branch wood inevitably contains reaction wood (under compression on the lower side of branches, which keeps the branches up). The stresses in this will relax when you cut it so the wood will quickly distort. It will also change its distortion as its water content reaches equilibrium. Even after fully seasoned, there can be movement, both fast on cutting (e.g. turning) and slower on moisture equilibrium. This doesn't stop you using it, as the distortion can produce interesting effects. What it does mean is that when you start turning a piece you should finish it in one session (other than rough turning of greenwood before full seasoning). If you part finish a bowl and leave it on the lathe overnight, it likely will not still be round in the morning, which could mess up your finish turning! Boxwood behaves similarly.

And remember to wear dust filtration. Yew dust is toxic and bad if you have asthma or any respiratory allergy.

Having said that, it is lovely wood, and you will easily be able to sell anything you cannot use. I got some great yew (trunk) slabs from Westonbirt Arboretum a few years ago, about 7' long, which made a splendid desk.

Keith

 

[ed-fish]

Hi Phil. I'm fairly local being in yeovil and would be happy to help you out if there is a surplus of useful wood wood for turning that you can't make use of.

Ed

 

[Mal]

Hi Phil. I'm fairly local being in yeovil and would be happy to help you out if there is a surplus of useful wood wood for turning that you can't make use of.

Ed

Hi ed-fish, how about that?

Another resident of Yeovil here!

 

[Sheptonphil]

Hi Phil. I'm fairly local being in yeovil and would be happy to help you out if there is a surplus of useful wood wood for turning that you can't make use of.

Ed

Happy to bring it home and share the spoils, there will be plenty to go round. Waiting on the contractors to contact me any time now. Will PM when the deed is done.

A good day out last week, Yandles show from 10:00 till 2 then across to Huish (whats with all the hold ups at Westland roundabout, 30 mins to do 1/2 mile), a loss, but never mind, still going to be there for next season.

Phil

 

[ed-fish]

That's very kind of you Phil. I'm happy to help with loading if you'd like a hand. I'll look forward to hearing from you.
All the roundabouts are being changed. It's been a nightmare to get around.
Hi Mal. I wonder how many other Yeovil residents will pop up on this thread?!