Fox Sliding Compound Saw

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ike

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A word of advice on this machine. My Dad bought one - fantastic value for money. A dead ringer of the 12" Rexon machine as seen in Screwfix, but much cheaper.

The old chap couldn't set this thing up to cut square no matter what. The cut seemed to wander and burn on one side. He was convinced the machine was not built properly. Then I swapped the supplied blade for one of my spares (a Perform 80T) and voila - perfect results!

So just chuck the stock blade and fit a half decent one and you get an astonishing bargain compared to Rexon/Makita/Hitachi etc.
 
Dog,

Fox are of PRC origin I think but appear, from the examples I've seen, to be of decent quality. Hamilton Power Tools are the distributor. They do seem very close to Delta (at least in the mitre saw models). Since Hamilton lost the Delta distributorship to Toolbank I guess this brand has filled the space.

Rgds

Noel
 
A bit late with this but I just bought a 10" sliding mitre saw from the YES TV shopping channel.
I only wanted it for its increased depth of cut and longer slide than my 8" mitre saw with trenching.
This is the Bosun mitre saw.
On opening the box and trying to become familiar with the saw I found it very difficult to understand the instruction booklet owing to its very poor translation from the original Chinese.
e.g. After finished with the job, wipe the shred and dust sticked to tool. Keep cover.
I was pleasantly surprised to read that it had adjustable depth of cut for trenching which isn't mentioned in the TV advert.
It then took me 2 hours to find where this was. :roll:
It has a 75mm depth and 290 crosscut capacity.
On looking through some of my catalogues I found very few with the same capacity.
I then found the Fox mitre saw in the Rutlands book with the same 75 x 290mm cut and a 60 tooth 10" blade.
On closer insspection I found that it is identical to the Fox 10" sliding mitre saw (F36200 in Rutlands)
As the Fox costs £149.95 and the Bosun is £86 I appear to have found a cheaper source of the same tool.
I had not been looking forward to making a covered area (like a carport) along the back of the house, sawing the timber by hand.
Now I can saw the uprights to length and at the angle to suit the fall of the covering but can also saw the joists at the right angle to fit the wall plate and uprights.
With the depth of cut facility I can also cut housings in the uprights at the correct angle.
For me this means the saw will pay for itself by making this covered area.
Any further use will be a bonus.
The mitre lock is on a bolt, with plastic knob, behind the fence which doesn't seem to be as easy to use as the quick release and locking knob at the front of my 8" saw but familiarity and use should hopefully get me over that.
I'll add to this report once I have finished the covered area.
 
Dewy":31v3pllx said:
I found it very difficult to understand the instruction booklet owing to its very poor translation from the original Chinese.
e.g. After finished with the job, wipe the shred and dust sticked to tool. Keep cover.
Ahh, some classic Chinglish there, Dewy. Love it. :D Look forward to hearing what you think after what sounds like some pretty extensive use.

Cheers, Alf
 
I just tried a few test cuts after reading the booklet and trying to understand the atrocious translation I realised it cuts wider cross and depth cuts than advertised.
Instead of 290x75 it can cut a maximum of 305x90 (12"x3½")
It will only cut the 305 at full depth so any trenching cuts will be an inch or 2 less.
The depth stop is only a piece of steel with a slot along the length through which goes a bolt that tightens it in place so getting a good adjusment will be hit and miss.
With a little knowlege of working with steel it can be replaced with something that can be locked in place with a setscrew and another at rightangles to give better fine depth adjustment.
That is something to try in the future.
 
An induction motor at that price?


NO. but it comes with a spare set of brushes. ;)
 
On checking the 12" crosscut on contiboard I found the fence over 1° out.
After trying to understand the chaiwanese instructions I found the adjusment screws after throwing the booklet to one side.
At full adjustment I still couldn't get a 90° cut.
This appeared to be an error in the aluminium casting and the 4 bolt holes drilled in it.
I tried elongating the holes with a round file but it was slow work.
I found a round fine rotary file in my old toolbox and used this in a power drill.
In less than 5 minutes I refitted the fence.
It still wasn't exactly 90° so I filed a little more off and tried again.
This time a test cut was perfect after a slight adjustment.
 
Update:
The same shopping channel are now selling an identical mitre saw rebadged as Bachmayr complete complete with stand for £96 +p&p.
To get one even cheaper you just need to have bought something from the channel before and you get a 5% reduction.
I bought a couple of rubber brooms to use in the workshop for £5 minus 5%.
I wish I had bought the brooms first so I had 5% off the mitre saws price. ;)
 
Hi Dewy, can you help me out, I too have the Bosun model, and can not for the life of me work out how to raise the sawing arm, as you are now bilingual in english and chinglis can you translate for me.
Billyboy
 
Hello billyboy99
Welcome to the forum
You cannot raise the saw any higher than it is but to lower the blade you hold down the botton on top of the handle and at the same time lift the lever on the right of the handle.
Both of these lock the saw in the up position.
I suggest that you try it with the power unplugged because it is natural to pull up the on/off switch at the same time.

I hope that is some help to you billyboy99
 
Mmmmm Hopefully Dewy still looks at this forum these posts are soo old!

I too purchased the saw from the TV shopping channel. I now need new brushes. Can anyone who owns one please tell me where these can be bought?

I bought it to build a shed, yes it is noisy but a great tool - never bothered with the manual either press and pull everything and see what it does - bit like computers lol !!! I was hoping it would survive long enough to finish a cladding project and the decking - I am useless with a hand saw :oops:

Thanks!

Rob
 
"can not for the life of me work out how to raise the sawing arm"

I guess you have probably worked it out for yourself by now - I think you are referring to a locking mechanism - I can remember where it is but it took me about 15 minutes playing with everything to find out why it would not return to the normal top position!
 
Hi, llewellynr

Brushes are brushes all you need to do is find some that will fit even if you have to file some off the sides.

Pete
 
Hi Billyboy99,

Juat above the battery box for the laser, and in front of it is a small black knob. Pull it out and u should be able to release the arm.

Rgds

Rob
 
ok well it is obviously a different model.

I suggets that you will probably find a knob on the base where the arm assembly is attached - as I said it is a small black knob that you need to pull out on mine. Sorry can't help any further if it is different.

Rgds
 

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