Fixing leak in Transit Roof - pics

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paulc

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Hello,

I've got a small gap of a few mm about 8cm long in the seam on the roof of my transit.

I ground down to bare metal and applied isopon p38 and then painted area. But it's still leaking.

This stuff must be pourous or was not applied right. Pic underneath.



Two options have been recommended. (I'd weld if i could)

One is fibreglass - but I'm concerened about how this would work with metal - only adhering on the surface and not dealing with movement.

The second is Tigerseal or Sikaflex. But I wonder how long this stuff will last for ?

Any advice appreciated , Cheers
 
Standard body filler is porous if exposed to the elements. If you can get the seam all clean and back to bare metal then use sikaflex or a similar polyurethane exterior/marine sealant, from practical experience the seal should be good for 5 years or longer if painted. Some metal to metal seals I see at work (using sikaflex) are around the 10 year mark.

HTH
 
The isopon should have worked Paul if you got it right into the cracks of the seam. It needs to be painted to be fully waterproof so I wonder if its getting under the paint.. Stupid question but are you 100% sure that it isnt tracking from further along?

If it were me, I'd grind it off and do it again with filler or glassfibre, neither of which should be porous, then I'd treat the inside with sikaflex. I would have used this externally initially rather than isopon but not sure how effective it would be now. I think I'd also put a bead of sikaflex along the rest of the seam externally as belt and braces.

I've used it a few times, last was to bond a heavy glassfibre spoiler to the boot of my bmw which stayed very securely stuck for the 3 years I owned it.

Bob
 
Paul that's a fairly common area to get a leak. It's due to body flex and poor initial sealing done at the factory.
If it's where I'm thinking there should be the roof reinforcement directly underneath it ??
Best way to fix it is grind away all of the filler you've applied and then, wire brush in a drill will work well, (the pros use a wheel type machine) remove the seam sealer 6" past the leak area either side.
Masking tape either side of the joint, about 6mm apart. Either use the gun type or get brushable seam sealer and make a nice neat bead. Warming the area first with a hot air gun makes application easy and allows the sealer into the gap. When dry, do not rub down the seam sealer, prime and paint.
I freelance at the brother inlaws bodyshop when he's busy and this is the stuff we use.
http://www.flpgroup.co.uk/products/seal ... -adhesives
 
Lons":2kx2l5bz said:
I've used it a few times, last was to bond a heavy glassfibre spoiler to the boot of my bmw which stayed very securely stuck for the 3 years I owned it.
Bob

Oh dear Bob. That sounds like a serious mid-life-crisis!
 
Open up the split/crack then Tigerseal it and paint over it.
Tigerseal sticks steel to steel and anything else including glass, Excellent stuff and won't crack. Regards Rodders
 
doorframe":2bu5u42v said:
Lons":2bu5u42v said:
I've used it a few times, last was to bond a heavy glassfibre spoiler to the boot of my bmw which stayed very securely stuck for the 3 years I owned it.
Bob

Oh dear Bob. That sounds like a serious mid-life-crisis!

:lol: :lol: :lol: No, not what you think. It was heavy in weight but not size. Rather subtle really.

The "sportscar crisis" almost materialised a couple of years ago when I was very nearly tempted to buy a 3ltre Audi TT but I knew my wife would make a fuss so I opted for the A6 I have now. I'm really pleased with the car but was a bit gutted when I got home and she said "why do you want something as big as that - it's an old mans car". I'd have got away with the TT, gone off them now though :lol:

Bob
 
SikaFlex is the stuff. It's used to bond buses together. Comes in Black, White and Clear.

BTW, is that a MK5 Smiley LWB Mid-roof?
 
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