Sad Pangolin
Member
Hi ---
Given limited budget I've got a Metabo TKHS 315 C tablesaw. It's got a somewhat substantial weight (60kg) but all in all it's really floppy. The sawtable without extensions is just under 60cm wide, 80cm deep; then short T-track rails to front and left.
As my first planned project was to build a workbench, this is now somewhat in disarray. I've seen various youtube projects of fixing tablesaws into benches, so I think that's the best way to go; and I can see how a 'contractor' type saw will do that (like a DeWalt, flat at bottom). However the Metabo is a set of legs, with a steel top over that (folded an inch around the edges), and then the whole saw hangs off that.
For starters, the top is far less flat than I'd planned/hoped, together with the wobbliness. That top is 1.8mm thick steel, with an inch of overhanging lip to which the ( 2.5degrees splayed outward) legs are connected. You can google for photos or I can photograph any part of it that would matter.
I want a 122x180cm workbench roughly, and 90cm tall; it's a compromise over available space etc as usual. I'm looking for any inspiration on how to proceed!
My current thinking is:
Is this a terrible plan? Is there an obviously better plan? Would it be more sensible without the legs, straightup joining ply to the top's folded lip?
There are further complications, like this boxing-in will overheat the motor (would almost touch one of the walls); and swung to 45degrees the body sticks out substantially past the top's footprint. But both these can be solved by cutting holes in two the two long sides of the 'boxing in' box.
I thought of removing legs and top; but the structure by which the saw is connected to the steel top is very close to the swinging part of the tilting mechanism etc; and not many places to fix onto.
The other main question is where to fit the saw into the bench: I was going for the blade being 40cm from the left short edge --- then with the bench against one wall, the blade lines up with the left edge of my door and I can feed 2m40 x 60cm long stock into my shed with 2m40 outfeed. [see sketch] And moving the bench away from that wall I can line up the blade anywhere within the door's width. Or does that make no sense, is only half the width sensible (flip workpiece over) so blade can be 70cm not 40cm away? Because most arrangements I've seen have the saw at the narrow end of the (typically 4ftx8ft / sheet-sized) bench?
Any suggestions welcome, and I can elaborate where I'm unclear!
Given limited budget I've got a Metabo TKHS 315 C tablesaw. It's got a somewhat substantial weight (60kg) but all in all it's really floppy. The sawtable without extensions is just under 60cm wide, 80cm deep; then short T-track rails to front and left.
As my first planned project was to build a workbench, this is now somewhat in disarray. I've seen various youtube projects of fixing tablesaws into benches, so I think that's the best way to go; and I can see how a 'contractor' type saw will do that (like a DeWalt, flat at bottom). However the Metabo is a set of legs, with a steel top over that (folded an inch around the edges), and then the whole saw hangs off that.
For starters, the top is far less flat than I'd planned/hoped, together with the wobbliness. That top is 1.8mm thick steel, with an inch of overhanging lip to which the ( 2.5degrees splayed outward) legs are connected. You can google for photos or I can photograph any part of it that would matter.
I want a 122x180cm workbench roughly, and 90cm tall; it's a compromise over available space etc as usual. I'm looking for any inspiration on how to proceed!
My current thinking is:
- Fixing 12mm hardwood ply over the top, sacrificing 12 out of 85mm depth-of-cut, for a one-piece large surface. My shop floor is rather flat, so I can do this on the ground with the saw upside down, legs sticking up.
Then removing the stanchions, loosening the legs, and boxing in with ply (say 888mm tall so it's to 900mm working height) until the legs are vertical not splayed, then screwing all tight (probably bending the lip of the steel top, where the legs are fixed)
Then fit 18mm (or thicker?) ply (or MDF?) on top of previous ply, minus a rectangular hole (just over 80x60cm) to fit the boxed-in saw. Then maybe a torsion box construction, and legs made from 2x4s in the way of Steven Ramsey's 'woodworking for mere mortals' bench.
Is this a terrible plan? Is there an obviously better plan? Would it be more sensible without the legs, straightup joining ply to the top's folded lip?
There are further complications, like this boxing-in will overheat the motor (would almost touch one of the walls); and swung to 45degrees the body sticks out substantially past the top's footprint. But both these can be solved by cutting holes in two the two long sides of the 'boxing in' box.
I thought of removing legs and top; but the structure by which the saw is connected to the steel top is very close to the swinging part of the tilting mechanism etc; and not many places to fix onto.
The other main question is where to fit the saw into the bench: I was going for the blade being 40cm from the left short edge --- then with the bench against one wall, the blade lines up with the left edge of my door and I can feed 2m40 x 60cm long stock into my shed with 2m40 outfeed. [see sketch] And moving the bench away from that wall I can line up the blade anywhere within the door's width. Or does that make no sense, is only half the width sensible (flip workpiece over) so blade can be 70cm not 40cm away? Because most arrangements I've seen have the saw at the narrow end of the (typically 4ftx8ft / sheet-sized) bench?
Any suggestions welcome, and I can elaborate where I'm unclear!