Fitting stable door

[beejay]

Im about to replace the workshop door with an outward opening stable door and would appreciate any pointers regarding:
Best finish, (hardwood door)
Rebate in bottom? Do I need one, Ive got a new frame and hardwood sill.
Best type of lock (Ive looked at sash locks but they all have that curved lip on the strike plate which would be visible from outside.
And anything else I should be aware of.
Hope someone can help.
regards, beejay

 

[Smudger]

Sorry, I have to ask.

Has the horse bolted?

 

[OPJ]

If you want a varnish-type finish, I read recently that solvent based finishes are more durable than the water-based stuff in exterior conditions. I imagine something like Yacht varnish would be ideal; depends on how much of a gloss or shine you want. Maybe practice on some offcuts? The main problem with an oil finish is that it will need recoating more often.

When hanging the door, it is often suggested that you should temporarily fix the two halves together so you're basically fitting "one" door. On a softwood door where it's gonna be painted white and you can fill the holes, that's fine. Not sure what to suggest with a hardwood door, unless you're happy to plug the holes... I've not tried it myself, but it's supposed to be more tricky fitting two individual halves and getting them to line up correctly.

Not quite sure what you mean on the rebate... These doors are generally rebated where they meet for draught-proofing, etc. (just make sure it's the right way round, or else your door won't open at all!). :wink:

 

[johnf]

sickens filter 7 is the finish to use suposed to last 7 years if appyed corectly
a pair of five lever mortice dead locks will do the job get them keyed alike so you only have one key

regards John [/list]

 

[9fingers]

I've got a similar job to do but inward opening. It will be the house back door and located under a very deep veranda. It will need to be draughtproof to a high standard but never experience any rain.
I'm thinking of a rail and stile construction with a deep rebate, weatherstipped to seal between top and bottom doors.
Maybe a ply panel set in a groove in each rail and stile frame for stability and applied tg&v panelling inside and out to give the right appearance.
I was going to fit a lock to the top half and some serious bolts on the inside of the lower half
I don't know what timber they want but possibly oak. I will have to make this in UK and take it over to France to fit.

Does this sound about right.

Apologies to OP for hijacking the thread

Bob

 

[beejay]

Thanks Olly and John for the suggestions which I'll take on board.
I had looked at the Sikkens finishes but i've decided to paint it white to match the rest of the exterior of the house. I'll seal it and prime it and use a quality exterior gloss so hopefully it'll last a while.
I will go with the locks as suggested and thanks for the tip on the key, excellent idea that.
Also, hanging it as one unit to get the hinges in line makes sense, thanks for that.
The rebate I mentioned is at the bottom of the door where the door would meet the threshold or doorstep usually a metal or plastic weather bar is set into the step and the door closes against it. Having now looked at some other exterior doors they all seem to have this rebate so I'll probably do the same.
Thanks again for all the replies, you've been most helpful.
regards, beejay

 

[cornucopia]

silkenns are a fantastic product.
If you are going to paint make sure you seal all knots first, you can use either shellac knotting or a better alternative is to use aliminium wood primer all over followed by a good exterior system like dulux trade weathershield, two coats of undercoat followed by one gloss should be good on a non south facing aspect for 5 ish years.