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Fitting front panels to a router fence

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billw

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OK so I'm following a design for a router fence, where there are two moveable panels on the front face to allow the adjustment of the gap in the middle. The maker has simply run two bolts through each one from the front but I think this looks untidy.

Could I simply put these in the back to hold the threads?

Insert Nuts Type D M6 x 13mm 50 Pack | Insert Nuts | Screwfix.com

This is roughly what I'm working off, except I'm not using MDF because I'm not weird.
Router_2D00_fence_5F00_fig_2D00_a1.jpg
 

dzj

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For mdf, a carriage bolt is better, but if you're using hardwood, the insert nut will also work.
 

mikej460

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OK so I'm following a design for a router fence, where there are two moveable panels on the front face to allow the adjustment of the gap in the middle. The maker has simply run two bolts through each one from the front but I think this looks untidy.

Could I simply put these in the back to hold the threads?

Insert Nuts Type D M6 x 13mm 50 Pack | Insert Nuts | Screwfix.com

This is roughly what I'm working off, except I'm not using MDF because I'm not weird.
View attachment 100732
Have you considered putting T Tracks on the inside of the faces and using male knobs from the back - would that work?
 

Rorton

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I use these for my router fences, I put the threaded insert into the moving fence, then a threaded knob thingy through the slot. Works well.


IMG_2786.jpeg
 
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Rorton

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forgot to say, these ones from Screwfix are very soft so when you tighten them up with an Allen key, if the hole isn't perfect and you have a slight countersink for the top of the insert, then it will start to round off easily (dont ask me how I know!)

Just countersink the hole to allow the wider head to sit flush and you will be ok - do a test on an offcuts first.
 

billw

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forgot to say, these ones from Screwfix are very soft so when you tighten them up with an Allen key, if the hole isn't perfect and you have a slight countersink for the top of the insert, then it will start to round off easily (dont ask me how I know!)

Just countersink the hole to allow the wider head to sit flush and you will be ok - do a test on an offcuts first.
That was just the clearest picture I found on google to explain what I was thinking of. My idea for the reverse side is the same as yours, except I'm topping mine off with a front-facing t-track to hold the perspex guard and potentially featherboards.
 

sammy.se

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I've used threaded inserts in my MDF router jigs with no issue. There isn't much force on them in the application you describe. If you are concerned with MDF 'fluffiness', just add some superglue to the threaded insert before you place it in the MDF.
I'd also recommend some tests to find the right hole size to allow your threaded insert to fully bed while giving strength. E.g. when I used MDF, a 7mm hole was perfect for the 6mm threaded inserts I had at the time. But do your own tests...
 

mikej460

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forgot to say, these ones from Screwfix are very soft so when you tighten them up with an Allen key, if the hole isn't perfect and you have a slight countersink for the top of the insert, then it will start to round off easily (dont ask me how I know!)

Just countersink the hole to allow the wider head to sit flush and you will be ok - do a test on an offcuts first.
That's interesting because I drove mine into thick pine with an impact driver without problem. These ones
Insert Nuts Type D M6 x 20mm 50 Pack | Insert Nuts | Screwfix.com
 

billw

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Have you built it yet?
I've started. Did quite a bit of the basic work today but my "I'll just make this up as I go along" approach hit a few snags so I've stopped for the day. I found some M6 inserts to use, and I've sawn down the ends of a couple of coach bolts to use in the t-track so I'm making progress!
 

Terrytpot

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forgot to say, these ones from Screwfix are very soft so when you tighten them up with an Allen key

Just countersink the hole to allow the wider head to sit flush and you will be ok - do a test on an offcuts first.
I also had some that were slightly prone to break up but only if it was a real snug hole...now I use a spade bit of the appropriate size for clearing the head diameter first then use my calipers to measure the minor diameter on the threaded section to select a suitable pilot size and then dip the insert into a wax before driving them home.
 
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