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Fitting Cornice/Crown Moulding

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Doug71

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I have some wooden cornice to fit around the top of a panelled room. The cornice will be held down a few millimetres from the ceiling to allow ventilation behind the panelling, also the ceilings are a long way off being level or straight. The cornice is about 4" on the flat so will stand up and off the wall about 3".

I was originally going to mitre the internal corners but see on all the videos of Americans fitting Crown moulding they scribe the internal corners, I would do this on skirting but wasn't sure on cornice?

Some of the walls slope so no matter what I do the joints won't be perfect anyway but it is all painted so a bit of filler here and there won't matter.

Also as I can't fasten to the ceiling I didn't know if the odd triangle fillet was needed behind the cornice as I can only fasten it at the bottom?

Anyone have experience of doing similar?

This is the cornice


Thanks, Doug
 

johnnyb

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I'd mitre to using blocks to stand it up and a mitre guage like the festool things(other guages are available)
I use a Collins coping foot for stuff like that though. it's a wonderful and slightly alarming gadget till you get used to it.( oddly it's best with t244d blades.
 

Doug71

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Thanks guys, I ended up scribing in the end, as everything was so far out I figured it would be easiest to have one piece fastened to the wall and just butt the other up to it. I had to do some bits in short lengths as the walls were so bent, was hoping I could bend the cornice a bit but it wouldn't have it, even with a bit of kerfing. At least the shorter lengths made it easier to handle.

@johnnyb I have always been tempted by the Collins coping foot but never got around to buying one. I have an old Festool Trion jigsaw and if you take the base off you can use it for coping as it rides on the blade guards but I'm sure the proper foot would be much better.

trion.jpg
 
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