First bandsaw: advice appreciated

[johnbs]

I've just purchased (but not yet taken delivery of) my first band-saw. It's a Startrite 352. I recall reading that there are "vari-pitch" blades which seem to have a good reputation? I would like to be able to neatly cut quite thick hardwood, albeit slowly. Do HSS blades exist?

Any other received wisdom/ tips etc much appreciated.

John

PS it's a 3 phase machine which I hope to drive from an invertor.

 

[OPJ]

Sounds like a great buy if this is your first ever bandsaw! 8)

I think most standard blades now are high carbon steel (HCS)? You can buy TCT bandsaw blades from certain suppliers but they are very expensive by comparison.

When you say 'variable pitch', I assume you mean M42? Again, they're significantly more expensive than HCS blades but, if you plan to do a lot of deep-ripping and want a good finish, they might be worth the investment. You can order these from Tuff Saws or from EPS via. Workshop Heaven (to name two suppliers). Tuff Saws (run by Ian John, formerly of Dragon Saws) also do a Supertuff "Fastcut" blade - it's like an ordinary HCS skip-tooth blade but, it has a thin-kerf (less waste or strain on the saw) and, between every tooth is a smaller tooth with no set that aids sawdust removal and allows you to cut quickly. I doubt they'll last as long as a blade made from M42 steel though.

You want any more info on the Supertuff/Tuff Saws range, you can e-mail Ian directly - sales @ tuffsaws.com. Many satisfied users of his blades, here.

 

[johnbs]

Olly:

Many thanks for your advice. The only place I'd seen M42 previously was on the Axminster site. They imply (or rather, customers) that the vari-pitch blades also run quieter. I'll contact Ian as you suggest.

John

 

[Jonesy]

I've found 'Band Saw Handbook' by Mark Duginske quite a useful guide - plenty of info on different blade types, tips, jigs etc.

 

[devonwoody]

Using a bandsaw has a learning curve, so I would advise getting hold of some scrap wood and getting some practice cuts in before you cut some expensive timber.

Assuming your requirement of the B/S is to resaw, mark a line down the timber and set the fence and see if it is cutting true.

If the blade will not stay to the line, do another cut halfway along the timber without the fence set and then mark your table top with a reference line (pencil or white crayon) and change the orientation of the fence to match the line you have drawn, further cuts should then stay true when cut with fence.

 

[OldWood]

I've been a t/s man all my life and recently invested in a lower quality machine than the Startrite, but I'm not going to be cutting anything demanding as you are, so it is adequate (and less expensive!)

One thing that I did was to take the collective's recommendation and bought Steve Maskery's DVD's 4 and 5 ("The Compleat Bandsaw"). I like everyone else here sing it's praises. I went on a 4 evening course on the use of power wood working tools and found that Steve's DVD's covered things the course didn't, much to the irritation of the tutor I suspect when I started asking questions.

rob

 

[John. B]

You can get vari tooth blades from Highland woodworking in the USA.

They call them 'Woodslicer blades', cost around $30.00 for an ordinary sized bandsaw, the snag is of course, postage.

If on the other hand, you are holidaying in the USA and are near Atlanta, Georgia
pop in and get a couple.

John. B