Finishing oil

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I'm working on a small pine table that will most likely get used for drinks and things, so am looking for a suitable finish. Although I think a varnish would be the best bet here, I don't want the shiny varnish look, so was looking at Liberon - Finishing Oil.

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... ron+dk7401

I hear that stains can be blotchy with pine, are oils likely to be blotchy too? .. do I need to put something down first to prevent that?

Also - why would you use wax on top of the oil?
 
As a rule oils are not the finish to go with for waterproof finishes. But many modern 'oil finishes' aren't just oil, they are oil blended with various resins or waxes which makes them a very different animal.

transatlantic":3m1vl6x9 said:
Although I think a varnish would be the best bet here, I don't want the shiny varnish look
I think a varnish is the best bet here and if it ends up more shiny than you want that's easily rectified, just knock back with fine wire wool.

transatlantic":3m1vl6x9 said:
I hear that stains can be blotchy with pine, are oils likely to be blotchy too?
Straight oil no I don't think so, but a blended finish I think you'd need to do a test to confirm.

transatlantic":3m1vl6x9 said:
.. do I need to put something down first to prevent that?
If you do need to then a thin application of shellac is probably the ideal thing. You can use dilute varnish for this as well but obviously it's slower to dry.

transatlantic":3m1vl6x9 said:
Also - why would you use wax on top of the oil?
For more shine mainly. People claim it's to add protection as well but wax actually adds very little, although because it makes water bead on the surface it does increase the grace period after a spill.
 
I've used it quite a lot. The oil shouldn't go blotchy.
It has a nice satin finish which will gloss up with additional coats or a wax coat will bring it up to a shine if you want.
If you do end up using it, it's best to use several coats wiping off the excess inbetween.
Also it won't harden off that well in the cold.
Its not as tough as a varnish, but if it gets marked or scuffed its easier to touch up.
 
Osmo oil is dead tough and would do very well. Expensive.
Cheaper would be straight raw linseed which would need several thin applications well rubbed in and rubbed up, with drying time in between, before a strong film is built up.

PS From the blurb I'd expect that Liberon oil to do well, unless they are lying in their teeth!
 
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