Finishing ends of table legs?

[Chris152]

I've cut a set of table legs to fractionally over required length on my bandsaw and I'm trying to get rid of the cutting marks. I've tried clamping them and sanding together by hand but it's taking ages and using lots of paper, and I'm not happy with the result. I also tried clamping them and holding in the vice to plane but can't get them to hold perfectly together.

Should I be using a disc sander to finish all four legs together (they're only about 3cm width)? If so, how much of the quarter of the surface of a sander is actually useful (I understand that the nearer the centre, the less wood is removed? Is that right?)? Or a belt sander?

Any advice much appreciated.

Chris

 

[Brentingby]

Do you have a table saw or a compound mitre saw or a mitre box and a hand saw? You could set up a stop so that each leg is cut to the same length as the others. Is it just the length you're worried about? Or are you also concerned with the surface finish?

 

[Chris152]

The length is fine - I cut them all together on the bandsaw, so it's just the finish. I also plan to use some cross members whose ends will show, so the ends near to be as near perfect as I can get them.

Thanks.

 

[ED65]

I also tried clamping them and holding in the vice to plane but can't get them to hold perfectly together.

Do them one at a time? It'll take longer but if it's easier to hold them securely individually it'll make all the difference.

Do you have a single-cut file of any decent size? That's also worth trying to finish off end grain, you can get a really good finish with one that might take minimal sanding to finish off.

If I were doing this I'd strive to make the sawn ends as good as possible to begin with by sawing to final length using one of my finer hand saws (in my case a small Japanese-style pull saw). The sawn end-grain surface this leaves is so good sometimes I'd be happy to leave it on show!

 

[flh801978]

On the subject of disc sanding whilst its true that as you get closer to the middle of the disc the less material is removed
Provided you hold the material flat to the table and square (if you want it square) to the disc then material will be removed equally all over...but just at the rate of the centre of the disc area

Ian

 

[Myfordman]

Don't forget a chamfer on the bottom of each leg to remove the risk of splintering if the table gets dragged.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I assume the table is to have a glass top? If not, surely you're just making work - no one will see the ends again once it's made.

 

[custard]

If you've got a disc sander then use it, in a professional workshop that would be the main tool choice for this job. Place the leg in the outer half of the disc's diameter and you'll be fine. With a bit of practise you can work right to a knife line with a disc sander and be left with a finish ready surface.

Once you've assembled your table you'll almost certainly need to adjust one or more legs to get it sitting level, that's a harder challenge. A disc sander's no good, neither's a shooting board. You'll probably be taking off just a mill or two so sawing's probably out too. That pretty much leaves you with a block plane, and this is when you'll find out how good both your tool and your technique really are!

 

[MikeG.]

I've cut a set of table legs to fractionally over required length on my bandsaw and I'm trying to get rid of the cutting marks. I've tried clamping them and sanding together by hand but it's taking ages and using lots of paper, and I'm not happy with the result. I also tried clamping them and holding in the vice to plane but can't get them to hold perfectly together.

Should I be using a disc sander to finish all four legs together (they're only about 3cm width)? If so, how much of the quarter of the surface of a sander is actually useful (I understand that the nearer the centre, the less wood is removed? Is that right?)? Or a belt sander?

Any advice much appreciated.

Chris

If they're only 30mm wide (square?), then 4 of them together in line are only 120mm, or less than 5 inches. This should be very straight forward to clamp together to plane (albeit I would be sanding on a captive belt sander). To clamp them together, lay them flat on a bench with the ends lined up (use a square), then clamp them top and bottom with F clamps. Don't muck about: make sure they are plenty tight enough. Then take the entire assembly across to your vice, and use this only to hold the legs in the appropriate position for planing. I would put a small chamfer on the far end first to prevent breakout (you'll be chamfering all around later anyway).

What sort of table has legs only just over an inch wide? That really is very skinny.

 

[Chris152]

Thanks all.

ED - I thought maybe to try one at a time but my skills aren't so good and I usually end up making a mistake, which means cutting more away - and with legs that'd mean all the others would need reducing too! And cutting with my band saw (6 tpi) probably makes deeper marks than with a tenon saw or pull saw as you suggest, maybe I should try that.

flh - thanks, that makes sense.

phil - The top's wood, so it's just the feet - but more important are the ends of the cross members that'll be on show.

Myfordman - I didn't even know to do that! I do now...

Custard - is fitting a beer mat to the shorter leg an option? (I had to laugh at this... https://www.designboom.com/design/rietv ... furniture/) I can't picture the result of me tackling a 30 x 30 mm end with a block plane.

I've searched for a used disc sander but nothing near me - Axminster have one for about £200, and it seems there are other jobs that it'd be good for. Has anyone any thoughts on this one?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... gKv6fD_BwE
I guess there's not that much to think about (tho it seems changing discs is a pain).

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Chris152]

Mike - It's a small coffee table (50 cm tall), and could well be that the legs'll be too skinny - though they'll be braced by cross members top and bottom. Thanks for the thought on planing - maybe I gave up too soon on that option, I'll do as you say tomorrow and see how I get on before I buy any more kit.

edit - what's a captive belt sander?

 

[MikeG.]

Mike - It's a small coffee table (50 cm tall)....... what's a captive belt sander?

I just made up a word for a mounted belt sander, rather than one you hold in your hands. In other words, a belt sander arrangement where you hold the work-piece, rather than holding the belt sander. I made a simple jig to hold my sander, with the belt vertical to the plane of the bench, so I don't need a stand-alone sanding station. For real end-grain sanding perfection, you need a big heavy disc sander, preferably over 600 in diameter.

 

[Chris152]

Clamped top and bottom, held in vice and a few passes with a newly sharpened blade.

Really pleased with the result. Thanks so much!
Next I'll be looking for a block plane to try to adjust one leg at a time. #-o