Finish over Sharpie

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gregmcateer

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Good people,
I've made some beads for my niece to use as what I think are called Ranger Pace Beads - something to do with orienteering.
My plan is to write a letter on each bead with a Sharpie to spell her name, and I'd appreciate advice on a suitable finish over the ink so it doesn't smudge.
Thanks in advance,
Greg

20210626_201442.jpg
 
Smudging can be a bit of a problem as the sharpies contain different solvents depending on brand.
My solution when faced with a similar issue was to take a little scrap of timber into the stationery store and draw a line on it with every sharpie on the shelf. Sprayed over it at home with an aerosol of clear polyurethane. Most smudged, one or two didnt.
 
I did some rock painting with the kids last year and found C laquer over sharpies run every time. Try acrylic paint pens as they don’t run.

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Did you then use acrylic lacquer over the top?
 
This post has been of particular interest because in the aircraftery the wooden aeroplane models are finished with some areas in black and then the whole thing overlaid with a clear coat - was varnish but now teak oil. Although a black paint is predominantly used it would be handy if a sharpie could be used on some of the smaller bits. On a test piece I tried a number of different sharpies, both spirit and water based and they all smudged to a greater or lesser degree when the teak oil was laid on. Because the black areas need to be clearly defined I prime the timber first - was with a clear coat from a rattle can but now sanding sealer, this to prevent the paint or sharpie ink from creeping along the grain. So I tried putting a coat of the sanding sealer directly over the sharpie inks as well and there was not the slightest bit of smudging on any of then in spite of some fairly vigorous brushing. When dry I gave it a whizz over with 0000 steel wool and applied the teak oil and all good so problem solved. I believe sanding sealers differ a bit but the product I used was from Feast Watson and the data sheet is online and lists all the ingredients.
 
I'd be concerned that sharpie on wood will run and wick in the grain of the timber.
Perhaps a test first, and if necessary, lacquer the beads first to seal them, then mark, then finish with a second coat
 
Not to detract from the original question, but pace beads for military land navigation that I used have 13 beads divided into two groups separated by a knot The beads do not move easily on the cord in case it is dropped or snags on something. I kept my pace beads in my pocket and could easily locate and move the next bead by feel.

The first group has nine beads and the second group has four beads. As the interval of paces or distance are reached, one of the nine beads is slid away from the rest and the interval counting starts again. After the ninth bead is moved and the next pace or distance interval is reached, one of the four beads is moved away from the others and the nine beads are moved back to the starting point. Using this simple tool, it is possible to accurately keep track of paces or distance, even in the dark.
 
Not to detract from the original question, but pace beads for military land navigation
Neat! I suppose those pedometers have taken over this function now but I really love those low tech solutions. If it doesn't need batteries, it's the device for me!
 
To avoid the bleed issue all together, have you considered marking with pyrography?

even if you don’t currently have a kit, the simple soldering iron type can be had for less than a tenner and hot wire kits start from about £35 for the cheap Far East machines (which are ok actually, that is what I started with).
Just a thought……
Simon
 
Not to detract from the original question, but pace beads for military land navigation that I used have 13 beads divided into two groups separated by a knot The beads do not move easily on the cord in case it is dropped or snags on something. I kept my pace beads in my pocket and could easily locate and move the next bead by feel.

The first group has nine beads and the second group has four beads. As the interval of paces or distance are reached, one of the nine beads is slid away from the rest and the interval counting starts again. After the ninth bead is moved and the next pace or distance interval is reached, one of the four beads is moved away from the others and the nine beads are moved back to the starting point. Using this simple tool, it is possible to accurately keep track of paces or distance, even in the dark.
How often do you move the beads. These would have been very helpful in my weekend walk of the Leeds Liverpool canal race when overnight at the foulridge tunnel navigation esp distance was tricky. Sorry for the thread drift.

Cheers James

ps I bailed at 85 as my legs seized up.
 
As I understand it from my neice, you move one per e.g. 10 paces, then each set you move one of the small set, a bit like an abacus (or rosary , if you're feeling holy). There are YT videos explaining it.
 
This post has been of particular interest because in the aircraftery the wooden aeroplane models are finished with some areas in black and then the whole thing overlaid with a clear coat - was varnish but now teak oil. Although a black paint is predominantly used it would be handy if a sharpie could be used on some of the smaller bits. On a test piece I tried a number of different sharpies, both spirit and water based and they all smudged to a greater or lesser degree when the teak oil was laid on. Because the black areas need to be clearly defined I prime the timber first - was with a clear coat from a rattle can but now sanding sealer, this to prevent the paint or sharpie ink from creeping along the grain. So I tried putting a coat of the sanding sealer directly over the sharpie inks as well and there was not the slightest bit of smudging on any of then in spite of some fairly vigorous brushing. When dry I gave it a whizz over with 0000 steel wool and applied the teak oil and all good so problem solved. I believe sanding sealers differ a bit but the product I used was from Feast Watson and the data sheet is online and lists all the ingredients.
Very interesting. Some of the very old watches I work in have paper dials. I have always been on the lookout for something to seal them effectively after cleaning and sometimes retouching printed areas with a rotring pen, will have to try this stuff out.
 
How about wax; would have a nice smell too. Thing is with laquers is the finish might get chipped !
 
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