Finish for a kitchen counter

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El Barto

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I'm fitting a small kitchen into my camper conversion and while eventually I hope to make a beautiful worktop/counter, for the time being I'm using some rather cheap laminated pine. I'd at least like to give it a nice finish, so what are my options? A nice rich Danish oil look would be good and it will need to be food safe I guess. Something like the attached photo...

Lsdfog2.jpg
 
Osmo Poly-X. Food safe and stain resistant. Just bought some for some oak worktops i'm about to fit. Great stuff and it goes for miles, so you don't need much.
 
I used Rustins Plastic Coating on my kitchen worktop. It's been in use for 15 years or so.
 
To test, or try before you buy, Osmo sell small sachets for not much money. I think you'll find though that Poly X is your best choice.
 
Howdens sell Osmo Top Oil for their oak worktops but i'm pretty sure that it's just Poly-X under a different name. I hope so anyway as I've bought a tin of it.
 
I've just used osmo on some drawers and I love the stuff, a thin coat rubbed down when dry then a rub with wax and the smoothness is unreal. I'm making some oak worktops and I plan on using on there as well.
 
skipdiver":2g23vkrv said:
Howdens sell Osmo Top Oil for their oak worktops but i'm pretty sure that it's just Poly-X under a different name. I hope so anyway as I've bought a tin of it.


Osmo aren't particularly forthcoming with their ingredients, so there's more speculation than fact when it comes to discussing the differences. However, I'm convinced there's some secret sauce in their products because I've run quite a few tests and Osmo is streets ahead of alternatives like Danish Oil (and even many varnishes) when it comes to stain resistance. I'm not alone in this conclusion, more and more professional workshops are abandoning Danish Oil type products in favour of Osmo.

Both stain and abrasion resistance are central to every Osmo product that I've used. But, when it comes to Top Oil versus Polyx, I think the difference is this. Polyx is formulated more towards abrasion resistance, and Top Oil is formulated more towards stain and moisture resistance, they both deliver both qualities, so it's a qualitative difference rather than an absolute one. Furthermore, they're both food safe so they're both fine for worktops. For even more water resistance there's a separate Osmo product that can be used as a top coat, I forget the name but when you go through the catalogue it's obvious which one it is. On balance I prefer Polyx, I suspect that you get a lot more abrasion resistance with Polyx, but only a little more stain resistance with Top Oil. However, I won't pretend that this is based on masses of scientific evidence, and if someone presents more comprehensive tests than I've done I'd be open to changing my opinion.

There are three other groups of Osmo products that are worth mentioning.

There's a UV resistant product. It's different from everything else in the Osmo family as it's water based. I've tested it and it's okay, by that I mean you do get some non yellowing benefit on pale timbers, but you're talking about slowing the process down by two or three years rather than any permanent advantage.

There's a thin oil product which has advantages on oily timbers like Rosewood, but who's using much Rosewood these days? Some makers claim it also delivers more pop to heavily figured timbers, I've seen it in action and let's say I remain to be convinced!

Osmo also offer a range of tinted products. The ones that are likely to be of interest to most makers are those with additives that claim to counter the yellowing of oil on pale timbers. This is a very attractive promise, and I've looked quite closely at these products. My conclusion is that they have radically different results on different timbers. What you'll get on Sycamore is very different to what you'll get on Ash, and they're both different to Oak. It's pointless me saying what's good and bad, because it's so subjective, but none the less I do use these products with some timbers but I won't bother with other timbers. Luckily you can buy small sachets of Osmo, so there's absolutely no excuse for not running your own tests!
 
Thanks for the info custard.

I have read more than once that Top Oil and Polyx are indeed the same but Top Oil was re-branded because people thought Polyx was only for floors. Don't know if that is true or apocryphal but i imagine i will be fine using either on the oak worktops.
 
Thanks for all the info Custard, interesting and good to know everyone speaks to highly of it.

Another question about it: is there a knack to applying it? I read somewhere that using a scourer/scotchbrite type pad works well...
 
Yet another question which hopefully someone can help me with. How should I be joining these two work surfaces? I will be using table buttons to attach them to the frame but I'd like to have a nice tidy join across the mitre (I haven't planed it yet). What is the correct of doing this? Would wood filler suffice?

Conversely, this isn't the kind of job where I'm obsessing over details so I don't mind if it isn't perfect, I'm more concerned with getting it done by next Thursday which is when this camper is due to depart for France!!

2DNZ0p7.jpg
 
El Barto":3g4rg3ve said:
Another question about it: is there a knack to applying it?

That's the problem with finishing, it seems to appeal to our inner alchemist and so you'll hear all sorts of voodoo! Personally I just rag it on and it seems to work out fine..

But I'm sure a Scotchbrite pad would work well too, so if that appeals then why not!
 
El Barto":2jwyp7ew said:
I'm more concerned with getting it done by next Thursday which is when this camper is due to depart for France!!

A Thursday deadline sounds like a pretty good argument for filler to me.

Bon voyage!
 
I've been using the top oil for the last couple of days and it is different to polyx, so what i heard about it being one and the same is incorrect. Top Oil is like a thin wax, so i suppose it's wax oil?

First coat i applied with a synthetic brush, left overnight, lightly sanded this morning with 240 grit and applied a second coat with a cloth, as directed on the tin. Have only done the underside in case it went awry, but by this evening as i was leaving the job and it had been drying all day, it looked grand. Customer likes it anyway, which is the main thing. Will do the tops tomorrow.
 
El Barto":161524vo said:
Yet another question which hopefully someone can help me with. How should I be joining these two work surfaces? I will be using table buttons to attach them to the frame but I'd like to have a nice tidy join across the mitre (I haven't planed it yet). What is the correct of doing this? Would wood filler suffice?

Conversely, this isn't the kind of job where I'm obsessing over details so I don't mind if it isn't perfect, I'm more concerned with getting it done by next Thursday which is when this camper is due to depart for France!!

2DNZ0p7.jpg


Kerfing in, you run a saw between the gap cutting the high points away, you might need to do it a couple of times to get a perfect fit.

All the joints on these trivits where done that way.

24 October by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

Pete
 
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