Filling cracks question.

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Johnny65

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Hi guys,

Can someone tell me in detail how to use super glue and sanding dust to fill cracks in turned bowls etc please, " mix it and slap it on " not detailed enough.

Cheers John.
 
It never worked for me as it was pretty impossible to get a good match. Try the shellac sticks sold by Liberon. They literally run into any crack by a kind of osmosis.
 
Hi guys,

Can someone tell me in detail how to use super glue and sanding dust to fill cracks in turned bowls etc please, " mix it and slap it on " not detailed enough.

Cheers John.

Fill the crack with dust and drip thin CA through it.

As said above though, it often isn't a great match colour wise. Depending on the cracks, it may be better to not use the dust, or make a feature of it.
 
CA and wood dust is for skinny little cracks and it's never quite right, it would hide the crack but can at lest fill it so stuff doesn't get in to it.
use a thin CA (Rather than the normal stuff).
sprinkle fine dust over the crack and use your thumb it massage it in to the crack.
wick thin CA in to the crack using a pipet
let cure.
repeat as it shrinks.

I asked my mate how to do it, he said he didn't use CA glue at all and instead uses a special blend of fluids. *


*mates name is Phil McRackin (bum tish, thanks, I'm here all week)
 
CA and wood dust is for skinny little cracks and it's never quite right, it would hide the crack but can at lest fill it so stuff doesn't get in to it.
use a thin CA (Rather than the normal stuff).
sprinkle fine dust over the crack and use your thumb it massage it in to the crack.
wick thin CA in to the crack using a pipet
let cure.
repeat as it shrinks.

I asked my mate how to do it, he said he didn't use CA glue at all and instead uses a special blend of fluids. *


*mates name is Phil McRackin (bum tish, thanks, I'm here all week)
 
I have only had limited experience with this, but I watched a demonstration fine rebuild of a couple of tenon saws where a large crack and a handle horn were rebuilt layer by layer (not as slow as you'd imagine as this stuff sets fast) with poundland superglue and a careful choice of sawdust --- didn't hide the repair but looked pretty good and seemed strong

the lumpy repairs were filed into shape within a few minutes of the refill
 
You can get dark super glue which looks more natural even though it's not a colour match.
Use neat or with sawdust, coffee grounds etc.
 
CA and wood dust is for skinny little cracks and it's never quite right, it would hide the crack but can at lest fill it so stuff doesn't get in to it.
use a thin CA (Rather than the normal stuff).
sprinkle fine dust over the crack and use your thumb it massage it in to the crack.
wick thin CA in to the crack using a pipet
let cure.
repeat as it shrinks.

I asked my mate how to do it, he said he didn't use CA glue at all and instead uses a special blend of fluids. *


*mates name is Phil McRackin (bum tish, thanks, I'm here all week)
and I thought it was Phil McCavity...
 
Use Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) Activator Accelerator Spray - fill the crack with dust, dribble on the superglue and then one puff from the spray can and the superglue dries / sets instantly. You can build up several layers very quickly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11468980...2WW35-_vCChG_z3At_-_fKOvhi-JGtM4aAoNwEALw_wcB
That sounds pretty like the stuff you get for glueing mitres, if not that could work quite well as it is a two-part solution, the thicker stuff could be mixed with the sawdust and then the aerosol to cure it.
 
For tips on using superglue look on YouTube and search for something like " Using superglue as a finish for pens " they will demonstrate using the accelerator and how much of it to use, it's not a lot.
 
A useful practice is to save your sanding dust from different timbers, I keep mine in plastic bank coin envelopes, it will nearly always look darker than the surrounding timber, so sometimes it can be an idea to use a contrasting colour to make a feature out of the crack. I have used turquoise dust as well as other colours, though the dust was always some ground up material rather than dyed wood dust, and I used araldite as resin for that. Cyanoacrylate is good because it sets quicly and you can build it up to a finished point in a short space of time. As others have said, doing it a bit at a time in layers tends to work best.
 
If you have very fine cracks I find that taking a strip of sand paper then dripping ca glue on it then rubbing hard over and around the crack. The CA glue and dust hardens and the crack gets filled in.
 
For tips on using superglue look on YouTube and search for something like " Using superglue as a finish for pens " they will demonstrate using the accelerator and how much of it to use, it's not a lot.
I've done a few CA glazes but when i use the spray it always reacts and makes a white patch !
 

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