Farmhouse Dining Table Base - Appropriate Material

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Fred

New member
Joined
15 Feb 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Overseal
I am thinking about making a base for a farmhouse style dining table. It seems i only need 3 things for this: Legs, Fixings, and "Frame" (that's what I call it... but i'm referring to the frame that the table top and legs attach to.

I've sourced some turned pine legs, so i'm sorted there.
I can sort out the fixings.

What i'm missing is the frame. I'm not sure what material to use. My first guess would be pine board (2cm thick, 10cm high) but I wonder whether this will cut the mustard.

I intend to fix the "frame" boards to the legs using pocket holes, and then use some kind of diagonal brace (also screwed into the leg). My feeling is that any pine board i get from Wickes/B&Q will be too soft, and over time i'll get wobble, which will annoy me.

Does anyone have any suggestions for the material i should be using for this frame?
 
You've obviously got some sort of design in mind, which I simply can't picture from your description. Could you post a picture of the sort of thing you have in mind?
 
I don't have permission to post links, but ebay item 201367053836 should illustrate.
 
Fred":2rc7ygcb said:
I don't have permission to post links, but ebay item 201367053836 should illustrate.
The braces will just brace the 'frame' boards... which are commonly called the Aprons. You'll still need a secure method of fixing them to the legs.

Personally I'm not a fan of pocket hole joinery, but that's just me. What I'd advise is mortising the boards into the legs with a mortise & tenon joint. Much stronger, and I think that's what they've done in that photo anyway.

You might find this of interest:
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/wp ... rawing.pdf

https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/vi ... ject-info/
 
I'd also avoid the pocket hole joinery.
The corner brace i strong enough to be used on its own and a lot of knock-down
tables use this method of attaching legs to the apron. The wider the brace the better.
Best to use hardwood instead of pine.
 
Fred":2dsrxhqd said:
And is Wickes / B&Q grade pine ok in theory?

No. It's complete crap. It's often wrapped in plastic, and the moment you take that off it springs into a banana shape. Don't touch it with a barge pole.
 
The best way to make a table is with mortice and tenons, any thing else is a waste of time.
Knockdown fittings are only used so tables are easy to transport.
If you are making a table to last M&T is the way to go.
What tools do you have?

Pete
 
Pete Maddex":p2o2lesy said:
The best way to make a table is with mortice and tenons, any thing else is a waste of time.
Knockdown fittings are only used so tables are easy to transport.
If you are making a table to last M&T is the way to go.
What tools do you have?

Pete

Depends really on the size of the leg. If it's 50 or 55mm square, you don't have that much
space for 2 perpendicular tenons. So better to use the fittings.
A dining table being top heavy, it'll make short work of the short tenons.
For a bulkier leg M&Ts are the way to go (if the technique is within the OP's grasp).
 
This is the sort of thing I think of when people say "farmhouse table". Rough and ready, chunky legs,
little or no decoration:

iu
 

Latest posts

Back
Top