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Face frames - I don't understand

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wobblycogs

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I know that this is probably going to be an embaressingly stupid (set of) question(s) but I'm totally stumped on how I go about building and attaching a face frame to a framework I've already built. I'm going to use a real world example which will hopefully make it easier to explain where my confusion lies. So here's the frame / carcass that I've built. As you can see I've already fitted a solid oak top to it.



The side nearest will have two full height frame and panel doors the other side will be a fixed frame and panel.

The side panel seems like a pretty simple task. Just knock up a panel, scribe in on the wall side it necessary, fix to the frame and finally take a little off the nearest edge so it's flush with the front of the framework. The front frame has me stumped though.

I can't seem to get past the fact that the face frame that I make would have to exactly match the opening of the sub-frame or things wouldn't line up correctly. This, on it's own, might be possible to do but at the same time I'm going to have to scribe it into the wall on the left as it's not terribly vertical.

One solution would be to not worry about having the face frame opening line up with the sub-frame opening. The down side of this is that I would then need to pack out the subframe if I used kitchen cabinet hinges. Certainly a possibility but not one I'm keen on. I've got a lot of built in cabinets to make for this house so I'd like to minimize the amount of fiddly packing and resizing etc.

Presumably the face frame is attached by screws through the sub-frame into the back of the face frame?

As always thanks for any help and advice.
 

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Dibs-h

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The opening of the face frame doesn't need to line up with the opening of the framework. Make it to the proportions you like\want and then use butt hinges if you want that look.

If you would rather use euro hinges (or whatever they are called) - you could use either cranked ones or fit a spacer block to the side of the framework so that the hinge is spaced correctly.

Face frame fixing - some use pocket screws, some used biscuits, some (of us :mrgreen: ) use dominoes.

HIH

Dibs
 

wobblycogs

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Thanks Dibs. A good study of plenty of images turned up by Google has also helped. My confusion was over the thickness of my sub-frame which is made from 44mm stock which I was worried would make my face frame too chunky but I think it'll work. I'll probably go with butt hinges on a 20mm thick face frame. I'm familiar with that and it's worked well for me in the past.

Ah yes of course biscuits for fixing. Don't think I can afford a domino but a biscuit joiner should be within range.
 

Mr T

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If you are planning on scribing the frame to the wall it's worth rebating out the back of the frame, leaving about 10mm then it's not such hard work shaping the contour.

Chris
 

Mr T

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If you are planning on scribing the frame to the wall it's worth rebating out the back of the frame, leaving about 10mm then it's not such hard work shaping the contour.

Chris
 

wobblycogs

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Thanks for the offer of coming to see the face frames in your kitchen Peter. I think I'll have a go at this wash stand and see how it works out first. I've just had a quick look around your website aw well, I'm seriously tempted by some of the courses you run and your only half an hour away which is convenient. Bit busy with work at the moment but hopefully next year...

Great tip Chris, I'll defiantly be giving that a go.
 
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