Epoxy Window Filler

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repaircare is a slightly better alternative. its a great product but probably 2 expensive for bodging. I suggest the 4 hr product. you have to remove all the rot and paint around the repair. then put on a thin epoxy. After a while use the epoxy filler. smooth. scrape cut and sand prime paint etc.
for splicing leave a gap between the 2 joins for the filler.
 
Hi

I must respectfully dissagree with johnyb about the repair care being better.
I think the repaircare slow setting one may be very marginally better for forming corners and mouldings etc but its silly money. The "quick" one they do for splicing is rubbish.

The timbabuild ERC 10 is the sweet spot.
The speed of the ERC 10 enables you to get much more done more efficiently , even if you need to do a splice followed by a smaller fill you can finish it and get it painted in the time it takes the thicker EHB 60 or repaircare to go off.

You will need a mixing gun.
If you dont have any relevant stuff they do a starter kit with the gun a tube of each resin some stabilizer and some extra bits which is actually a good deal.
Pro tip the cheapest supplier is called direct brick.

If there is any rotten or soft wood left in the repair area you should prime it with the 2 part liquid epoxy leave it about 30 minutes. However I prefer to try and remove any soft or suspect timber completely and replace with a timber splice, using the epoxy as a glue and filler. As mentioned don`t make the joint super tight so you can "surround" the repair.
As with all epoxy, temperature is a factor its very slow when cold and will go off in about 2 minutes in July. We used to put some tubes in the cab of the van on the way to site on winter mornings.
Another tip is if you catch it at the right time as it cures (after it gels so not sticky, but before full cure ) you can use a plane or chisel to cut and shape it very nicely this leaves only very minimal sanding to do. If you leave it too long this becomes more difficult and sanding is the best way if you have left it more than a couple of hours. This doesn`t really work as well with the ehb 60 as it cures quite differently.

I personally think the timbabuild stuff is the best value and is a product that has been around a very long tome (used to be called VR90 and was developed by Chemfix for Ventrolla).


Ollie
 
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timbabuild is defo cheaper( a bit) but I like repaircare it has 3 setting times 1hr 4 hr and 16hr. also they do a version that works in a normal sealant gun.
I'm sure there very similar but I like the flexibility of the repaircare "system" eg they do a universal primer so i only have to carry one. I can make a 16 hr repair then finish with superfine epoxy.
 
Hi johnnyb

I must confess its been a while since I used the repaircare stuff, interesting to note they have added a 3rd speed version now as this was part of the problem I always had with it.
I find its a slightly different repair strategy, when I was working with that system we used to have die grinders with ball nosed or straight router bits in them to chew away the rot then we would come back the next day with the savage angle sander with the clip on pads and just go town till it was smooth. We would be doing the whole building or street so it was ok to come back the next day.
Do you still use the feehand die grinder of doom method ?
Nowadays I prefer the less messy method of splicing with the erc 10. Incidentally the primer is universal on the timbabuild as well.


Ollie
 
Thanks for the info guys, just what I wanted to know. I have ordered a Timbabuild starter set to get me going 👍
 
I use an old black and dicker 1/4 router body with a round nose cutter. repaircare care do the 3 set times and also a superfine epoxy( like a fine surface)as suggested the 1 hour is a bit strange but ideal for finishing off repairs quick.
 
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